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29mile. After spending 6days off at kamp Kito and watching the rubbish England game, I pack up and go for the catamaran to Korcula. After struggling up the steep gangway onto the vessel it’s of the Markaska 1st then to the island of korcula. After exiting the catamaran I start riding towards Vela Luka but after doing a long climb then checking the rest of the route with more long climbs I decide to visit some small villages instead of seeing luka which looks similar to the rest of the marina towns I’ve seen before. I arrive back near korcula old town and board the 5.30pm ferry to orebic. There’s a long climb over to trpanj so I decide to camp out at Orebic at camp garva. Nice little site and the owner speaks very good English. So after shower, tea and a walk, I have an early night.

Catamaran

Kamp Kito

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Only 26ml. Beautiful route today, very hilly again but worth it for the views. Up a 20% climb out of the bay 1st but managed to pedal up in the granny gear lol. Went to Pucisca first, Wow. Named on wikipedia as the most beautiful village in Europe. There is a school for stone carving and all the stonemasons come here to learn their craft. The white stone that comes from the quarry’s is even in the white house as well as Vienna and Venice. The quarry’s date back to the roman times.

Pucisca village

From Pusisca I rode over the mountain to Bol to get my ferry to the next Island. After finding out i can’t take the bike on the catamaran that connects the islands, I decide to go to a camping site and decide what to do. Camping Kito which was a good site, the owner looked like Jurgen Klopp. great restaurant and bar there and England are playing tomorrow so i’m staying here. Zlatni Rat is the beach here and is one of the best in Europe. the picture of the beach front’s many a holiday brochure. After much asking around and searching i have two options. I can get a small boat to Hvar but can’t get from there to Korcula, the next island down, so that’s a no. I get the ferry back to split and then catch another back to Korcula. Not a good option. I find out i can get a car ferry from Sumartin back to Makarska on the mainland then from Ploce, ferry to Trpanj on the peninsula and from there cycle to Orebic and then the ferry to Korcula. Update, I’ve just found out a ferry company with the catamaran will take the bike to Korcula from Bol here. It works out about £10 more in ferry’s but saves me over a day time wise. I think i will choose this option and stay here for the next England game on Thursday. We play Belgium and i’ve made a new pal, Henrick, the guy in the next tent who is Belgium. He used to cave, hike and wild camp all over Europe but after an accident, a new hip and being in a coma for a week and only just surviving, he’s here for a week and we have already built up a rivalry for the match on Thursday. A classic example of live your life and don’t wait to do what you want, (Like I have all these years) just do it as we never know what lies around the corner.

Bol bay

Zlatni rat beach from above

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36ml today. 25 to split but mapsme had me down a goat track for about 4 miles where I’d to push a fair bit of the way. Was off the beaten track today.  More abandoned houses on deserted roads. Really hilly but wow, was it worth it coming over a summit to see split from above. The track down must have been 25%. Had to keep stopping to let the brakes cool. After cleaning the drive chain and washing the bike in split I caught the ferry to Brac island. I looked for wild camping but found no where suitable so just kept going on the sea gravel path and came to a flat piece of land on a cove and asked a man who lived there who said I could pitch under the trees. Brilliant.

Off the beaten track.

View to Split.

Waiting to catch the ferry to Brac

Pitch for the night.

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Some roads turn into this

Abandoned Hamlet

57ml today. Set off and windy again. Went through abandoned villages again on deserted roads. Went through Kaka national park with some lovely views but quite hilly. Stopped to ask for water at a house on top of a hill and he sat me down and gave me lots of orange and offered me food. He was a soldier in afgan army. Left there went down and up another big climb and decided to wild camp early as a thunderstorm was coming my way. Got tent set up just in time.

Kaka national park

Kaka national park

 

 

 

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Pag town

Approaching Pag town

Bridge onto mainland

51miles today. Got up and the wind was horrendous again. I set off and made it to Pag where I bought some food and decided to go slow with the wind being so strong. Was nearly blown off a few times and don’t know how I managed not to come off. Good job the road was fairly quiet. Got to the bridge over to the mainland and had to walk between the barrier and fence as it was so exposed to the wind. As I got a bit further headed for Zadar, I decided to go inland rather than follow the coast to Split. This was a good move as I hardly saw any traffic. I rode along a road with lots of abandoned houses and the road turned into a bad state of I’ll repair. Not sure if this had anything to do with the war but it felt like a ghost trail. Got to 7pm and decided to wild camp off the road nice and hidden.

 

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30miles today. Leave campsite and go for boat to Pag island. When I arrive there’s already 5 bikes on board. Only a small boat so I take my bags off and load the bike before any one else turns up. After the half hr journey I set off towards Page town. Was going to wild camp but England play 1st match in world cup tonight so I decide to head for a small camping site on the beach at Kosljun. I arrive and there’s only 1 campervan there. Very quiet, in fact so quiet there’s no bar or anywhere to watch the game. Oh no. I speak with the women who owns the site and she agrees to let me waywa it in her house. Yippee. Although it wasn’t too good of a game we win 2/1 and score last goal in xtra time. I’m camped in the garden so lovely and quiet pitch.

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Well I get up early and leave my wild camp so I can cycle around before getting the ferry to Pag. It’s only 10miles to Rab town. It’s so beautiful here I go to the marina and find the ferry is a catamaran and foot passengers only. I go to the tourist office and the guy says a small boat leaves every day at 12 and will take you. I go to see the boat owner and he says ok 80kuna. About £10. I try the Padova 3 campsite just to see how much it costs and to my sirpsurp it’s only €12 per night. Not like the last place of 18. I decide I’m stopping here for 3days as it’s my birthday on the 17th. It’s a beautiful place and peaceful.

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The wind in the night is horrendous, luckily my tent is still intact ha. Well I precariously ride to the bridge in the high winds and am refused to be let over. No caravans or bikes due to the wind. I ask and it seems the wind is in for the day and tomorrow but might drop a little late afternoon. I decide to thumb a lift with a small vehicles but no success. Then a van stops. Great but he wants€10. That’s expensive but he says it’s his buisness when it’s windy to take bikes across. I agree and arrive at the other side.  So busy with traffic on this main highway so i take a small road and  cycle around to a lake and to Krk town. Change some money in the bank and decide to try to make the 4pm ferry to Rab. I arrive at the port with 10minutes to spare. 80 kuna for me and the bike. 1.5hrs later I am on Rab. The camping is so expensive I decide I will wild camp tonight so I hide in a field near a factory, make some tea to eat and have an early night.

 

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50miles. After a lovely breakfast and conversation with Emillije, I set off just as the rain starts. I shelter after 3miles as the rain is so heavy. This sets the pattern for the day. I visit Opatija and Rijeka on the way and was hoping to make it to Krk island over the bridge but after so many stops I decide to head for a campsite Ostro on the coast just before the bridge. Big mistake as I find out the next day.

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After another day off at Ivo’s to rest my legs, and lovely breakfast, I set off for my next warm shower host in the village of Sembije. 40miles later, with some steep climbs and a stop for some fruit to get there, I arrive but as I look at my phone I have no signal, so can’t remember what number house it is. Just my luck, a massive thunderstorm breaks out but luckily I have some shelter under a canopy. I looked at my offline map and luckily Emillije’s house number is in the saved address. Phew. Well I’m met at the door by Matjez, her husband and made to feel right at home. Showed to my bedroom above the garage and invited in for a shower and lovely pasta and salad meal. Was very good conversation with Emillije and retired to bed about 10.

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Ivo and Irena lovely, kind warm shower hosts

48miles today and two more big climbs on route. Again great scenery passed the Italian border at Nova Gorica. Headed for warm shower host Ivo and Irena’s house at a lovely peaceful village called Temnica. It was so nice and quiet with great views that I asked if i could stay another night. They were such generous and hospitable hosts. I watched Ivo and the amateur dramatics group practice foe a premier play and it was one of the actor’s birthday so we all called for some food and wine at the birthday girls house. Really great evening.

Rence village on the way to Temnica.

Coming into Nova Gorica

Memorial on the way

cycle path through Gorica

homemade side car in the village.

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28 miles easy day. Followed the Soca river. Absolute beautiful scenery, the water seems to be a Turquoise colour. Had a look in Bovec town but it was busy with tourists going on kayaking and rafting tours down river. Lovely picturesque town though. Koband had two campsites. The 1st one was not too good for camping with all the luggage as its on steps and the ground was stoney. The Lazar camping was great for the  tent pitch and only 1 euro more. Great restaurant also.

The beautiful Soca river, Bovec’s

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27ml today. Hard day climbing Vrsic pass today. Setoff from Dovje and rode10ml to Kranska Gora and then it was 5.5ml climbing, the sign at the bottom said 14%. Took short of 2hrs to reach the top and i had to rest a few times as the gradient got steep, it was hard to maintain pedalling with the fully laden bike. great views on top and had to Stop on the way down to let the brakes cool down.

Look closely and you can see a face in the rock face

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Had a day off in Ljubljana and went down the river in an inflatable boat with Matjaz who hosted me. Great guy made me a great breakfast of oats with fruit and yogurt. Had a drink that night and met his girlfriend. Left the next morning and rode up to Bled and looked around the beautiful lake then carried on to a lovely campsite at Dovje. Met a German woman cycle tourer who did the vrsic pass that day and said of all the passes she’d done, that was the hardest, which didn’t make me feel good as i was doing it the following day.

Matjez great host in Ljubljana

Bled, a Beautiful lake

Route up to Dovje

View from Dovje campsite

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70miles. After my ham and eggs breakfast at Boris’s lovely home I set off for Ljubljana. Good day but a long climb 30ml from destination. Also rained last 10 ml but at least I was on the edge of the thunderstorm clouds. Arrived at Mataeus flat, who Boris arranged for me. Great guy and made a lovely tea as what I would description as a thick hearty soup. Yummy.

Ljubljana city

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Boris and his parents.

28mls today. Left Anton’s farm and rode into Maribor for a look around. Not as big as I thought. Then on to warm shower host Boris. Not much to report on the way here today. His house was up a big hill, as usual lol. His parents were home and made me feel more than welcome till Boris arrived home. Lovely house with great views. His mum made a lovely tea and Boris phoned a friend in Ljubljana to arrange my stay for the following night. Top man. Also showed me, what seems to be a better off line navigation app than mapsme.

Maribor

Maribor

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22miles. Quiet day today, had already arranged my warm shower host just north of Maribor in Slovenia. And what a great place. Met Anton on his farm and it was beautiful and all the surrounding views were breathtaking. Anton made me feel at home straight away and we had a beer and exchanged a few stories before he did work around the farm. There’s Donkeys, horses, pot bellied pigs, goats and even lamas. Wow i was taken aback with his generosity. He gave me some great advice for my trip and i will stay in Slovenia a lot longer than anticipated thanks to his touring knowledge. A very experienced touring cyclist and a great guy.

Anton, great host from Jarenina. Warm shower host.

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47 miles. Left Jennesdorf and Hilly day but knew it was coming. Got as far as Gosdorf and saw a camping place so just pulled in and called it a day. knees were sore from all the climbing.

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52 miles. Got a good start this morning only to be stopped right on the Austrian border, to shelter from a massive thunderstorm. waited 3 hrs but set off when it eased and decided to go a direct line to save some time and ended up going up and over some big hills but great scenery and quiet roads. Was wet through and caught up with 6 mountain bikeing Austrians who i rode with for a way until they got to their hotel. We said our goodbyes and i carried on as wet as them. I carried on for another 2 hours before it got dark and found a lovely campsite at Jennesdorf. No pictures today due to the bad weather.

 

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42mile today, following EV13 in parts and ended my day at Koszeg, An eventful day where the signs seemed to have been changed around at Klostermarienburg and i ended up going through a forest and being eaten alive with mossie’s as i ended up at a dried up swamp where the trail ended. Although my highlight was reaching a great campsite at Koszeg for 6 euro in a beautiful garden. Lovely town square and it was double for a beer here compared to local bars out of the square.

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Well after leaving the campsite i headed for Hungary and visited Sopron which was a nice place to look around and skirted in and out of Austria and Hungary following the border line south. It was late when i had to wild camp  between the borders really. I hid in the woods off the road and was attacked with flies and mossies as i made a cup of tea and made some soup before an early night.

border crossing near where i slept

Roman centurion on the edge of the road

Sopron sights

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After leaving Vienna on the quiet route Phillip showed me i was heading for a campsite on a lake at Rust. As the day went on I felt really sapped of energy so i changed route and headed for a campsite at Neufelder,again on the side of a lake, really nice spot and very quiet. 6 euro for camping here.

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Great route and bike paths all the way down to Vienna. 60mlies. Had a swim in the Danube off the 21km island in the middle of the river. Was in touch with Stephanie and Phillip my warm shower host’s for the evening in Vienna. They gave me great advice on my route in and really looked after me.

Stephanie and Phillip my warm shower host’s.

After making me some great food including Kaserkrainer, we took off to see the city sights at night. They really took care of me, made me a great breakfast in the morning and Phillipp advised me on a great quiet route out of the city. Cheers guys.

 

 

 

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My 4 bed cabin all to myself 10 euro a night.

Left Havaranky today and a great cyclo camping place. 42miles tp Poysdorf through the border at Hevin. Changed my route, was going to go to Valtice border crossing but was 20miles onto route. and i had a late start. Set tent up and a massive thunderstorm for half hour so was lucky there. After eating in the lakeside cafe i returned to pay for my camping when i was invited to eat salami, cheese and bread with the camp site boss and his wife. Oh and drink wine. Had a great night also a Harley davidson rider called Fred came back from a wine tasting fest and joined us. Great night.

Met an American couple going the opposite way who told me about the campsite at Poysdorf both with Surly bikes

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Lovely goulash

Comfy cabins here.

Had a few days off at Havaranky cycle camping. went wine tasting along the paths to the vineyards and went to visit Zmojmo again and went down the underground city. It’s Liverpool Real Madrid tonight and thats why i stayed an extra day as the guy here says he will put it on the tele. Great place to stop here and great food. the chef guy, I think he’s part owner, worked in a 3 michelin star restaurant in France for 3 years and speaks English. The cabins are nice and cosy also. 

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Mist off the river evening in Vranov

Beautiful Vranov in the evening

Only 22 miles today. Went to zmojmo to look around. Lovely place but the camping here was not very secure being in town and me being the only one there. So i left and headed for a site at Havraniky. It forecast thunderstorms late afternoon so was glad to get here before they started. Got a cabin with 4 beds in to myself for 10 euro. Lovely quiet village. Mean plate of goulash too.

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The road to Landstejn

13th century Landstejn castle

castle ruins

Great views from the top

Stunning view from my tent pitch in a garden

I visited 13th century Landstejn castle this morning for a look around. Nice start to the day and i was the only one there at 8am. Then it was through some forest’s down to Slavonice to pick up the greenways cycle path again. After 42 miles I got to Vranov Nad Dyji and went down a massive hill into town. I passed a pension advertising camping so i stopped and was able to camp in the garden for the night at a cost of £4. But with an absolutely stunning view.

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stretch of Greenway cycle path

Greenway cycle path

The green like onion means the greenway cycle path

Here route 11 is the greenway path

Cervena Lhota castle

another shot of castle at Cervena Lhota

67 hilly miles today. Great scenery today. I picked up the Greenway cycle path which is from Prague to Vienna. It’s a great route taking you on quiet roads and great scenery along the way. I didn’t use it all the way due to coming off and going to look at other places. Also sometimes it takes you through forest roads and an odd field path, which is a bit dicey on a fully loaded touring bike but it was ok. Met Georg and Ilny, a German couple touring and they was on the way down to ceske budejovice, so couldn’t ride with them as i’d changed my route from going there. I got to the campsite just outside Nova Bystriche at 8pm and it was shut so had to wild camp again. Super noodles and a brew before dark and bed.  

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Pete and Alan

My wild camp pitch

Left Peter and Alan today, so was alate start 11am after a few brews and saying goodbyes. 47miles and very hilly. No where to camp and had enough of the hilly terrain so pulled of and wild camped off the road.

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28miles today from Prague to visit peter and Yanni and Alan and Jitka at Beroun. Brilliant to see them and catch up. Very generous couples and really looked after me providing me with home comforts, food and beer. Stayed for 4 nights and was sad to leave. Thanks guy’s.

Alan and Jitka

Peter and Yanni

 

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Prague was great but when i arrived in the evening it was busy with tourists, i couldn’t get on the charles bridge with the bike as it was so busy. When i arrived at Kanika’s flat i was lucky the bike would fit in the lift without taking the bags off. Kanika was busy with work so i went out to a restaurant around the corner where i had a great meal and the best beer i’d had up to date. Kanika suggested i stay another day to sight see, which i took the opportunity to do and i’m glad i did as it was raining the following morning. Caught the tram into town for the picture taking tourist lark and back to the same restaurant for Goulash and beer.  Thanks Kanika.

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Breakfast before packing up

great campsite but noisy trains

Great tasting Czech beer

Czech republic border

72miles today down to Prague. Took my time as my warm shower host Kanika didn’t finish work till 8pm. Great scenery again all the way. Came off the river path again a couple of times to save some distance.

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Dresden at Night

Dresden by night

Ready for the off, Czech republic tonight.

Czech Republic/ German border

Left Dresden today and rode into the Czech Republic. 60miles, Was going to try and make Prague but it would have been really late at night when i arrived  So decided to make it 2 easy days. Made it to a lovely campsite on the river but the downside was that 2 train lines, one each side of the river were running all night. I thought they might stop about 10pm but no, all through the night so i didn’t get much sleep. Great scenery again today. 

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Waking the next morning after wild camping on the river.

30miles the next day to Dresden which gave me all afternoon to take in the sights. What a beautiful city. I was with a warm shower host Tobi this evening so he was a great guy who showed me round the parts of the city i hadn’t seen and took me to try pizza bread which was something i hadn’t tried before and was delicious. 

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Great square in Wittenberg

After taking a look across the river at Wittenberg which was a beautiful city, I made for Riesa 75miles. Was late when i got there due to the late start and the campsite did not exist so i had to wild camp at the side of the river hidden in the trees. I came off the River cycle path and took a more direct route to avoid the extra distance the meandering river path takes. It was a great route as there was no other cyclists, which sometimes gets a little busy along the river cycle path. I went through some quiet forest roads which although it was hilly, it was worth it for the quiet and lovely scenery.

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Cup of tea and peanut butter butty for supper

view from the campsite.

Parked up for my chicken and noodles yummy.

More ferries across the Elbe.

64miles today, More ferry’s across the river. Pulled off the route to have a look around  Dessau. Nice city and even managed to find a Chinese Imbiss which was a nice change so it was chicken noodles for tea. Made campsite on the side of the river at Wittenberg. Nice site with lovely flat ground for tent pitch. Made a nice cup of tea and peanut butter sandwiches for supper.

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Today was 93mile as i had a tailwind. It was also fathers day in Germany so all the roads were quiet. It’s a day when all the men get drunk and travel from then to town with trolleys loaded with booze, or even paddle down stream with crates of beer in tow. It forecast thunderstorms today but although i came across wet roads, i never actually got any rain myself. I got to Magdeburg and couldn’t find a campsite and got no response on warm showers so pedalled on to Shonebeck looking for wild camping spot. I rode down ahead end road near the river and asked a man if there was a site close by. He was visiting his friend who owned the big house and his neighbour was having a party, so i was invited to pitch my tent next to the river and join for a beer and some food. Couldn’t believe my luck. Had a great night and slept well.

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Well Anke provided me with a lovely breakfast then it was off into pied piper Hamelin for a little sight seeing. Then i had to head a few miles in the wrong direction to an electrical mart to buy a new power bank, which i got a great deal on offer was a 20,000ml amp for 22euros. I got in touch with a few hosts and was waiting for reply’s as i was riding in the direction i wanted and about dinner time i received a reply off Jan saying he could host me. When i arrived we stored the bike safely and he made homemade pizza and drank a few beers exchanging tales of travel. Jan was a brilliant host, did some washing for me and took me to the supermarket as tomorrow was Sunday and the shops are closed. After a lovely breakfast of boiled egg’s homemade bread, marmalade and jam, it was off again. Oh and i forgot to say Jan made home ground excellent coffee which tasted great.

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51 mile today. Hit some hills today but was on quiet roads. Headed for Hamelin off pied piper fame and had a host for tonight in a little village about 6km from Hamelin. About 5 mile from the village my phone died so tried to plug it into my power bank and it was Kaput. So no navigation or address which was on my phone. Luckily i had my laptop so had to charge the phone enough just to get the address, which seemed to take an age.

Arrived at Anke and Andreaus beautiful house and was treated to a lovely meal and a few beers discussing our travels. A very nice couple and Andreaus was up the following morning at 5 to do a 160 mile ride. I felt in awe of this.

Anke and Andreaus

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60 mile today. Got a last minute request off warm showers accepted from a nice guy called Tim who was in a house share. I met his housemates and had a full downstairs kind of dormitory to myself. Tim was studying for an exam in the morning and after making me a lovely tea had to retire and study. I got a call off another host who wanted to meet up for a beer so he showed me around the town and chatted about travelling over a couple of beers then it was off back to bed for the evening.

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Arne my warm shower host

Saying goodbye

Left Krefeld the following morning and Arne rode with me to show me the way out of town. Then i rode to a nice campsite at Hagen nr Dortmund. It was such a nice site that i stayed for 2 nights and had a day off as it was Sunday.

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Travelled from Orischot to Krefeld, 66mile. Great roads again along the cycle lanes in holland following waterways for most of the way. Got in touch with Arne on warm showers who at the last minute, late afternoon, offered to put me up for the night. After putting the  luggage into his flat then it was off out on the bike’s to a really nice beer garden in a park and overlooking a boating lake.

Leaving Holland at Venlo and into Germany.

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Got off the Ferry at Rotterdam port and couldn’t believe how good the cycle lanes were.

Did 78miles to my warm shower host at Oirschot and only shared a road with cars for about 3miles of the 78.

Arrived at Harry and Roelie’s beautiful house at Oirschot and they made me feel so welcome and Harry made a Thai green curry which was fantastic. We talked about touring and Harry and Roelie are setting off on their great adventure cycling the world in June. Harry rode 15miles with me after a fantastic breakfast and giving me snacks for my onward journey. This was great as it gave me a great start to the day onto my next stop in Germany.

Harry my 1st European warmshower host.

I crossed the Border at Venlo into Germany.

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Set off on Monday 30th April. Went over the top’s to my 1st night stop at warm shower host in Horsforth, Leeds.

Met Stuart and his dad. Had a great evening. Took me for a carvery round the corner and had some great conversation. Stuart gave me some tips and had some great stories to tell about his cycle tour across America. Left the next morning and arrived in Hull 68miles later. Stayed with illina , another great warm shower host. Met Paul and his brother Andy who we saw at Dent festival last year. Had a few drinks and then the following day it rained till early afternoon. Had to leave illinas at 8.30 so had brekkie in a cafe on Beverley road and camped there all morning waiting for the rain to stop. Met paul again and killed some time waiting for ferry. Rode up the ramp onto the ferry car deck and secured the bike to a rail and carried the bags to my cabin. Bye Bye UK.

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Well after 1,500 miles and £2.000 raised for charity the journey is at an end. Sad to be going home but elated we managed in the extreme heat. Cake to celebrate and lots of beer’s before our flight home.

Greedy git

JT doing the honours

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Flip flop repair

Having his flip flop repaired for 20p, what a Malacca.

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What should have been an easy day of 40 odd miles ended up 70miles as we took a little detour to visit the Cu Chi tunnels.The Củ Chi tunnels were the location of several military campaigns during the Vietnam War, and were the viet congs base of operations for the Tết Offensive in 1968. The complex of tunnel’s is 121km long. 

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We left Phnom penh and rode just over 100mls to the border at Bavet following route 1. At  Neak Loeung the road ends and you have to catch a ferry across the Mekong river.

waiting for the ferry at Neak Loeung

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A long hard day with many great sights along the way.

Delivering giant blocks of ice

who needs a truck

 

 

 

 

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After our time in Siam reap we followed route 6 to Kampong Kdei, Krong Stueng, and down to Skun.

Skun province is known for the great delicacy of spider’s yum yum. From skun we had some R&R in Phnom penh.

We visited the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum chronicling the Cambodian genocide. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We rode 15 km’s south west of Phnom penh to Choeung Ek which is the site known as the killing fields. The site of a former orchard and mass grave of victims of the Khmer Rouge – killed between 1975 and 1979. About 17,000 men, women, children and infants who had been detained and tortured at S-21 were transported to the extermination camp of Choeung Ek. It is a peaceful place today, where visitors can learn of the horrors that unfolded here decades ago.

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We stayed in Siam reap for a few days so we could visit the impressive 8th wonder of the world and it was worth it.

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We caught a boat from Battambang, the day after arriving, down the Sangkae River.

This enter’s into the vast Tonle Sap lake. It took about 8hrs approx and you arrive at a little port from where we cycled the short distance into Siam reap.

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We followed route 5 out of the city following the Tonle sap river up to Kampong Tralach district. We were averaging about 50/60ml a day but the heat was extreme to say the least. It was so hot that we did 10/12 miles only then had to stop for water. The highest we saw on the thermometer was 50*c. Now that’s hot lol. John took a thermometer

Still following route 5 up to Krong Kampong Chhnang then Krakor, then Bakan and finally Battambang. We were stopping in guesthouses for our accommodation and most town’s along the way had them. We only stayed in Battambang 1 night as the boat had space on the following day for us and the bikes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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We headed south west out of Saigon and headed for Battambang. We headed via Tan an, My Tho, Vinh Long, Can Tho, Long Xuyen and then got a boat from Chau Doc up the Mekong river to Phnom Penh. The boat stops for immigration and visa formalities as you cross into Cambodia on the way. Once in Phnom Penh we had a rest before setting off to Battambang.

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Xmas 2009 and we set off on a trip to visit Angkor Wat, which was the 8th wonder of the world at that time. The plan was to fly to Saigon, (Ho Chi Ming city) and cycle doing a loop through the Mekong Delta into Cambodia, around the Tonle sap, visit Ankor wat and return to saigon. We raised money through sponsorship from friends and work colleagues. Raising £1000 for Alder hey children hospital, which my employer at the time (Bibby distribution c/o Ultraframe at Clitheroe) match funded making it £2,000. I can’t remember all the details but this is the best account as i remember.

Four of us was on this trip. Me and Andy drove down to Heathrow at midnight due to our connecting flight from Manchester being cancelled due to the bad weather. John (JT) and Graham (shagpile) caught a later flight when the weather improved and we met them in Saigon. Few days on the lash and then it was offski.

 

Sri-Lanka 20.1.11 Hikkaduwa – Negombo 86 mile

Sri-Lanka 20.1.11 HikkaduwSri-Lanka 20.1.11 Hikkaduwa – finished the cycling now. 86 mile yesterday in over 100 degree heat. Riding up through Colombo wasn’t as bad as i thought it was gonna be but still hard work all the same, damn bus driver tossers. Fly home tomo so depression has set in after the realization its back to work on Monday. Flat road all the way up and choose a quiet road from Colombo which followed a canal and lagoon all the way up to Negombo. No buses on this stretch. Saw a large snake which came across the road right in front of me but couldn’t get the camera out in time.  It was good apart from the weather early on in the holiday. Good roti’s and curry and rice. The culture also seems to be if you’re foreign then they double the price so this was not good feeling you’re being ripped off all the time.

17.1.11 Sri-lanka. Unawatana – Hikkaduwa 15 mile.

Travelled through Galle on the A2 today. only 50 minutes riding today and went right by the international cricket ground where the 2011 world cup will be played. Passed Midigama also which is a surf resort and 1 of the best places in sri-lanka for surfing. Hikkaduwa is similar to Unawatana but the bay is longer. Lot of surfers here as the waves are better as the bay is less sheltered. Its Poya day on the 19th so may do Negombo in 1 hit (86 mile approx) from here as this day will be quieter riding up the dreaded A2 galle road and less of the kamikarzi bus drivers if you can call them that. I wouldn’t give them an effin wheelbarrow to drive.

Sri-Lanka 16.1.11 Polena to Unawatana 24 mile.

Left Ploena and went to Unawatana. Really nice bay here but only a narrow strip of sand as all the building work after the tsunami seems to have stolen part of the beach. Lots of diving here. More going on here than Polena out till 3.30am on lash 1st night here. Good swimming here also.

Sri-lanka 15.1.11 Tangalle to Polena 26mile

Stayed in Tangalle for 5 days and only had a  couple of days of sunshine. Rode to Polena and stayed at Sunil guesthouse. Food was excellent. Saw lots of turtles, stayed for 2 days and had good weather. Went to Weligama and Mirrisa on bikes and stayed on beach all day it was really nice place and a lovely bay. Really nice chilled out spot here at Polena.

9.1.11 sri-lanka Tissa-Tangalle 49mile

After mending Andys puncture this morning we rode into town for a sri lankan breakfast of bread, rice and curry in a local cafe, cost just over a quid for 2 of us but think we were overcharged due to being farangs lol. easy and flat road today along the A2 and arrive at Tangalle early afternoon and book in at the Kingfisher guesthouse right on the beach, 1000rp’s a night for the room. Thats more like it. Been here 3 days now just chilling and swimming in the sea. There’s a Navy basae close by and the sri-lankan navy come and train on the beach every day right outside our guesthouse. The beach is almost deserted here at Tangalle which stretches for about 2km’s. If you want a picture postcard location with warm sea, palm trees, golden sand and peace and quiet then this is the place for you. Andys birthday tomo but moving further down the coast to Mirrisa i think then out on lash. I think its only about 28mile away so easy day cycling tomo.

9.1.11 sri-lanka- Ella-Tissamaharama 66mile

Ella in the hill country

Ella Gap

Andy arriving in Ella our last stop in the hill country.

The road down to the flat plains

Well left Ella this morning 5.1.11 after a curd and honey for brekkie. This is made from the buffalo milk and is very tasty. After riding only 3 mile down the Ella gap towards the flat plains, the rain stopped and the Vietnamese rain cape came off as the temperature also rose steeply. Was bare back riding now for

Andy weaving through a small mountainside town

still cool as we lose altitude

the rest of the day with the long awaited sun on our backs. We took the A23 down to Wellawaya and this was mainly downhill for 15miles although there was roadworks a few miles after Ella with mud and uneven surface which really shit us and our bikes up.

waiting our turn in the roadworks

Andy still in flip flops, what a wanker!

We then headed east on the A4 to Buttala and then south on the B53 to Tissa. This was longer but looked a quieter road and also took us down the outskirts of Yala national Park.

Its getting warmer

The flat plains and sun at last

arriving in the flat plains and nice warm weather

We saw elephants 4 times today down this road. Andy Punctured about 20 mile from Tissa so just kept pumping the tyre up every 5 miles to finish at Tissa due to the extreme heat we couldn’t be arsed to mend it. My eyes were sore at the end of today due to the constant stream of sweat running into them and stinging. We booked in at the Pala hotel on the main road in about 1km north of the town. very nice place good food 2000rp’s for room.

sri-lanka 4.1.11 Nuwara Eliya to Ella 37mile

coming down bad road. It went for miles

Well descended for over 14mile today on a terrible road which was single track in some places and full of potholes. Probably could have climbed it quicker than going down due to the state of the road. Started down A5 to Welimada Then forked right to Bandarawela where the road was smooth again. had some climbing again today but nothing serious. Arrived in Ella at 1080mt’s asl and booked into a great guesthouse called Rawana guesthouse with really amazing views of Ella Gap WOW really does take your breath away. Must also be the best meal we’ve had so far with rice and about 9 different dishes including whole clove garlic curry, being their signature dish. yum yum. Rained again today but then we are high in the hill country. I must add that if there was emissions tests on all the vehicles here then the roads would be clear of all traffic as they all bellow out clouds of thick black smoke which isn’t good when you’re lungs are gasping for clean oxygen climbing these damn mountains ha ha. Up early tomo for view of Ella Gap before the cloud’s come down. Will head for Haputale and Sir Thomas Liptons seat Which is on one of the  tea plantation’s estate which he purchased in 1890 and where he used to sit and have the best view in Sri-Lanka. equal to the view at worlds end. He succeeded in selling 10 million pounds of tea in just 2 years by under cutting the then going price by 2 thirds. this was the start of the real birth of the lipton dynasty and put Ceylon tea on the global map.

3.1.11 Kandy to Nuwara Eliya 46 mile

The start of the hill country. yesterday was serious climbing, we left Kandy on the A5 for Gampola and climbed a 5/6 mile mountain at 1600 meters above sea level but then dropped down and lost most of our height we just gained, what a sicken-er. We then passed a big waterfall at Ramboda and started the massive climb to Nuwara Eliya. It was sheer pain, OK at first as the views were great traveling up past all the tea plantations but i lost count of the hairpin bends we went round and it never seemed to end. Over 10 miles of up taking nearly 2 hours reaching the summit at 1980meters or 6185feet. It was also very cold up there so was freezing by the time we dropped to our guesthouse called single tree inn. Only consolation was it didn’t rain today. Had a filling meal of chicken and noodles at an outdoor place at the bottom of the road and a few beers before a good nights rest. Having a day off today before heading to Ella then its south for some sought after sun.

sri-lanka 1.1.11 polonnaruwa to kandy 84mile

On the road to Kandy

Roti Lunch stop in small village

hi all, well set off in rain yesterday to matele headed back to Giritale then took a b road down to Elahera. was a very bumpy road and mainly climbing the last 10 kms although not steep. It also rained very hard for an hour so got very wet although its still warm. we then hit the main A9 just as the rain stopped and decided to go to Kandy as its new years eve and a more lively town where you can have a drink till midnight. everywhere else we been, all the small towns shut at 10/10.30pm. last 20kms to kandy was 10 uphill then 10 downhill. had to stop goin up to put my lights on as it was gettimg dark and too dangerous with the horrendous traffic. it was foggy goin up with all the poisonous exhaust fumes from the buses and trucks. we finally arrived about 8pm and found a guesthouse south of the lake who wanted 2000rp’s but managed to barter him down to 1500rp’s. Had a drink in le pub but was double normal price so ended up in stags head above a big hotel around the corner for the new year celebration where it was cheaper beer. Having another night here then setting off again but which direction we’re not to sure yet. Will be south tho looking for some sun. it’s been sunny here today, so maybe things are looking up. Just had a great curry and naan bread in the Kandy muslim hotel which is just a small local restaurant. best meal here so far.

sri lanka 30.12.10 Kurunugalle to Dambala 43ml. Dambala to Polonnaruwa 48mile

Healy tourist guesthouse Dambulla

great food at healy and he mopped the lot up.

hi all. left Kurunugalle this morn and the madonna guesthouse at 2000rp’s wasn’t clean or cheap. Set off and  rode to dumballa. What a nightmare, its very frightening as the buses rule the road and come within inches blasting thier horns. if they overtake heading towards you then you must steer off road in the gutter or be deceased, its that simple.

Sigiriya Rock

Monkeys on top of the rock

only half way up the steps here

Stayed at Dumbala for 3 nights and visited sigiriya rock and the temple caves. our accomodation was at the Healey tourist Inn 1300rp’s per night. very friendly family who run this.

ths steps up the rock

swimming bath on top of the fortress rock

Just 1 of the great views from the top

yesterday 29.12.2010 set off for polonnaruwa. Had my rack, for carrying my bag, repaired at a roadside shack as the support bracket snapped. He made a new strong one and fit it for 50p. Also the cycling has been much more enjoyable. Since the right turn at Habarana crossroads its been quieter roads and even a shoulder to ride on. We passed through Minnerviya national park and saw mongoose, elephant, and monitor lizards on way along with lots of different spieces of birds including eagles. Lots of military camps along this route heading eastwards. we are staying at the samudra guest house 1300rp’s in polonnaruwa. very clean and located just before roundabout in town on the right down a narrow alley. Its monsoon rain here today and looks like its set in for the day so maybe another night here. We met the owner of the devi tourist guesthouse in town and decided to go for a drink there, Wow very nice clean place and without doubt the best place here to stay. I forgot his name but speaks very good English both him and his wife. Also cheapest beer we had yet and great food. Wish we’d have come here 1st now lol.

sri-lanka

well its hot and 78% humidity but its rained for 2 days out of the 4 we been here so far. unexpected weather everyone keeps saying. set off on bikes tomo up to a place called Kurunegala. no beer today but will be glad to set off i’m bored now. should have left today really but decided to have another days rest. Negombo where we’re at is just north of colombo on the coast. Very friendly people but not as cheap as other places in s.e.asia. Sea here is very rough and signs up for no swimming. Drowning is 2nd biggest killer of tourists here. The water looks dirty here also on this part of the coast.

sri-lanka cycling tour

Well flight tomorrow, up at 4.00am and leaving the cold weather behind, good i’m freezing my bollocks off here.

cycling from Hanoi to saigon via Laos and Cambodia xmas 2007

hiya all

 

This is the blog about our adventure at xmas 2007 where we cycle’d from Hanoi to Saigon partly along the ho chi ming trail through Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. This was 2 years ago so cant remember everything and the pics in the album are a little mixed up and out of sequence but thats how they uploaded.

 

We arrived at Hanoi airport and caught a taxi into the old part of town and eventually found a freindly guesthouse with vacancies. A couple of days on the lash then it was on a trip up to halong bay.  This is a majestic area where 3000 incredible islands rise from the emerald waters of the gulf of tonkin. We opted for the tour by boat which includes sleeping on a boat in the bay. you stop on 1 of the islands and do some exploring by kyayk which was great. After arriving back in hanoi we made for a bike shop and bought our mountain bikes for approx $160 including a few extras, spare tubes, rack etc. We set off out of hanoi and headed south for Dong ha where we would head west for the border crossing into Laos.

ITS A SHAME ITS THE END

Well 2 days to wait for our flight home now so its 2 days of well earned rest and drinking lol. Its been an amazing adventure and i dont know how how much money we’ve raised for alder hay childrens hospital but its been well worth it. we had some hard days due to the heat which was in excess of 120 degrees but our speed increased from 10mph average to between 15/16mph avg as we became acclimatised to the heat. Was really impressed with shaggers especially after the day we did a ton, seeing as he never really been on a bike before so well done to him and we’re all very proud of our accomplishment. Well its bye for now as its time for going on the lash at our cheap bar we found at 9 pence a glass of beer but it was only 8p 2 years ago, damn inflation………

 

Bavet to saigon

Is this really the end. we only had 40 miles to finish in saigon but we decided to visit the chu chi tunnels site which made the day a 71 mile nightmare with the finish coming into saigon with no lights in the dark during rush hour. after a shit breakfast we did the formalities at the border crossing and after about 15mins we was on our way. we turnrd off national route 1 after trang bang and headed for chu chi tunnels. finally after 14 miles we arrived at the site and had a tour round the tunnels. they have been widened so as to fit us big westerners down and the tunnels was full of bats which you caught with your heads while squeezing through the narrow passageways. its a 250km network of tunnels with 3 levels and its very hot like an oven down there. after a little local dish of tree root called tapiorchy or something which tasted like horse chesnuts, it was off to saigon. we arrived on the outskirts about 530pm and it took us till 7.15pm to reach guest house in backpackers area of district 1 Pham ngu loa. as the light faded it was horrendous and quite scary with the traffic coming to grid lock in central saigon. you couldn’t even get off and walk due to all the moto’s going down the pavements. its mad and the only way to get anywhere is to follow suit and just go for it. its amazing you dont see more accidents. John was waiting with a celebratery chocolate swirl cake and it went down a treat yum yum. good on yer john. 

105 miles phnom penh to bavet 14.1.2010

 

Had a day off yesterday after arriving in phnom penh. John’s been ill and hardly eaten for 2 days so he’s catching bus to saigon on friday. After an early start we planned to do 120kms to svay rieng but after doing 60 mile before dinner we pressed on to border crossing at bavet total 105miles. After the road comong to an end at neak loeung and catching a ferry across the mekong we pressed on making good time. shag pile ran over an engine valve from a moto and needed a new innertube so we arrived in bavet at 5.30pm. after checking in to guesthouse we went out to eat and this small border town is amazing at night time it turns into a floresant mini las vegas. About 6 massive hotel-casinos light up the sky with a multitude of bright colours. I had an early night and was sheeted up fot 10.00pm but andy and shag pile stayed out drinking ankor beer till 12.30am celebrating the fact we’d done 100+miles on the bike, but any excuse being the alkies they are.

Skun to phnom penh

48 miles today and had an early start so arrived at 12.30. we’ve booked in a guesthouse on the side of the mekong river and had an irish stew dinner in the frog and shamrock pub. back to tourist towns which is ok but prefer it out rural where not so many tourists. its a lot cheaper ha. John not been feeling good for last 2 days he’s hardly eaten and he doesn’t look to good but we’re having tomo off as well so hopefully he can recover. bad road into here for last 30 miles as its so narrow and the rule here is biggest has priority so you find overtaking 4by4’s and buses and trucks heading straight for you knowing you will move or die. so many times had to go off road onto dirt at side of road. you cant play chicken here on a bike and expect to win lol. 240 kms to go to saigon so 2 days left to do in the saddle. first leg is 120kms to svay rieng then exit cambodia at Bavet and then through vietnam border at Moc Bai.

Kampong Thon to Skun 11.1.2010 return leg

Bad day today as we went on lash last night for andys birthday. I felt so weak today i nearly fainted and went dizzy, i think mainly due to dehydration and no food. cant explain how hard it is to eat when the heat is so bad, you just dont feel hungry. after a late start and 60 miles to go it was bad from start to finish. we met a german cyclist today at a water stop and he’d been travelling 5 months from Korea to where we met him today with 2 months left for him finishing in bangkok. This region is known for spiders as a delicasy and they are great big things i’ll download a pic of them tomo. Not tried any myself but they look like big trallanchellous on a skewer. arrived in Skun about 430 and its only a small town again with a market in the center. After viewing 2 guesthouses we picked the best of the 2 who wanted $12 per room and managed to get a dollar off. we’ve had a lot better for $5 but they got you fucked due to them knowing there is nothing else around and the same guy owning everything around it seemed. early night again tonight and phnom penh tomo

Kampong kdei to kampong Thon 10.1.2010 return leg

58 miles today but had an early start so as to miss as much midday heat as possible. good road down here again. passing by villages and houses here in this part of the country side seems a simple life. families are totally self sufficient, growing their own rice, vegetables, rearing cows, pigs, chicken and ducks, and fishing at nearby ponds, just for their daily meals. Arrived in kampong Thon, a fairly big town compared to the one last night,  a little after 3 and booked in a hotel with ac and its andys birthday today so few drinks later.

siam reap to kampong kdei 9.1.2010 return leg

hiya all

 

this been first time i could update from siam reap due to no internet cafes where we been staying. Left siam reap late due to heavy boozing session till 3.30am and managed 40 miles to kampong kdei. This town is very different from siam reap, which is very westernized i suppose you’d say they even have a KFC, but this is the real cambodia. its a very small town with a small market in the center and a couple of guest houses behind it. was a good road down to here but very hot. well over 100 degrees so still very hard going. had a noodle soup and rice for tea and then everything seemed to close early so back to guesthouse for an early night and mossie nets had to be put up as well.

temples of ankar

Hiya all

 

been to see temples for last 2 days and they’re amazing, no wonder its the 8th wonder of the world. the battery on my camera is on charge at mo so will post the pics tomo. I think were heading back tomo so another 4 days back to phnom penh then another 2 or 3 to saigon depending on how things are going. no problems so far with anyones bikes. not even a puncture so good stuff. The site of the temples is 350 square kms so you’d need over a week here to see them all maybe longer. the moat around some of them are huge. people most have spent an entire lifetime on building these temples. its very westernised in the town siam reap due to the tourism so also a little expensive compared to other towns on the way here. any way i’m off for a beer now ciao

battambang to siam reap

Hiya all again.

awake at 530am yesterday in time for breakfast and then to jetty ready for boat ride to siam reap. We met a french couple on this boat who had sold everything they possessed and had been travelling for 5 years and intended another 7 years. The bikes were put on the roof of the boat then it was off up the stung sangker river from battambang and accross the tonle sap. This was an incredible journey and very scenic passing floating villages and nomadic river dwelling people who’s lives revolve around the changing seasons on the river. its a constant cry of hello and waving from the children on both banks as they hear the sound of the boat pas through. it almost seems intrusive passing through and the endless mass of riverbank shacks and floating villages but its very scenic and a bird watchers paradise. after crossing the tonle sap lake we weave our way up a narrow channel sailing through wetlands and branches of trees whipping the boat and your skin if you sit to close to the windowless boats edge. eventually we arrived after about 8 hours at the jetty at chong kneas and after loading up the bikes its a 8 mile ride into siam reap to a $5 guesthouse for the night.

pursat to battambang

Hiya again

 

68 miles today and the last 10 miles was hell. The sun has been burning me through my cloths its that hot. all the children run to the side of the road to wave and shout hello all day long through every village and town but for last hour didn’t have the energy to reply hello i was so drained. this battambang is a nice town and finally got a usb lead for my mates camera so will post some pics now. getting a boat ride tomorrow up the river and onto the tonle sap over to jetty town near siam reap so well earned rest from bike tomo.  

kampong chhlang to pursat

hello all

 

61 miles today again up to 120 degrees. strugglig in this heat and at a water stop stood in an ants nest and didn’t realise till all the biting on my ankles started. what a nightmare took 20 mins to get them off ouch. get dehydrated every day just cant drink enough beer er i mean water.

hard day

Hello all

 

Today was very hard. cycled to Kompong Chhlang, 62 miles and it was 123 degrees, 48c. was so glad to reach guest house and have cold shower and lie down. got dehydrated which made it so much harder and its so hard to force food down in this heat. going out to eat now so catch you all later.

new year

Happy new year to all. hope your ok. we spent new year in phnom penh. great fireworks display. leaving tomo got 100 kms to do to next town heading for battambang which will take 3 days its been up to 118 degrees so its very uncomfortable cycling but still batting on lol. been to Choeung Ek genocide site today or the killing fields its only 10 kms from guest house. also visited the prison where 20,000 were tortured to death and its hard to believe it was only 1975.

01 January 11:25

update

hiya everyone.

 

Arrived on time in saigon but had to drive to heathrow and leave car there as flight was cancelled from manchester. the two others who have come arrived without their baggage so now were behind scheduele as it took 3 days for it to arrive. the temperature is 104 through the day and cycling in the heat is harder than i remember but batting on. my camera is broke so photos up to date not possible but will borrow my mates and post them soon. will travel through border into cambodia in 2 days and will arrive in phnom penh on 31st so piss up there.ha. travelling through the mekong delta has been great and had to get a few ferrys as the road suddenly ends with a river in front of us but its only 6 pence to cross with bike. bye for now.

getting ready

Getting ready and in holiday mode now BA aren’t striking. just packed bike in box and last day at work tomo yipee.