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35ml. Woke up and still suffering with groin and getting on bike. In pain when I walk but pedalling is ok. The road is isolated so you have to take your own food and get water from the mountain streams.  A very hard day with some steep climbs but beautiful scenery and isolated road. Im riding alone as Josef likes to do his own pace and tells me to set off and not wait. I try my hardest on the steep climbs as if I stop, I wouldn’t be able to push it up with the injury. The heat is also making it hard work as it’s 35°. I arrive at 16.30 at Cob cottage to camp for the night. There’s only a toilet and running water. Josef turns up a few hours later.

Cob cottage

Dry landscape but beautiful

Tough climb’s

Tough route but worth every minute.

 

 

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42ml. After breakfast at Rene’s, I head to Blenheim and take Taylorpass rd. This is gravel but cuts out a corner and the main highway to the Molesworth. I head with speed through a ford in the bottom of a dip. Big mistake, the concrete under the water is like ice. I’m down and suffer abrasions down my right side. After checking myself and the bike and mopping the blood up I carry on. I’m in pain and think I’ve torn or strained my groin muscle on the right side. I can pedal but find it hard to get on and off the bike and stop putting my right foot down. Anyway I manage 60km and ask a farmer if I can tent in his field and he lets me. I also meet a Hungarian lorry driver, Josef, who is touring on the bike like me and he catches me up and also stays in the field in his tent. I hope a night’s rest will make the leg better.

Great scenery all day.

On the Molesworth.

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38ml. After breakfast at Baden and Shelley’s, I follow the river to Wellington after Baden very kindly booked for me the previous evening. I was going to follow queen Charlotte drive round to Nelson but there was no campgrounds anywhere and I got off the ferry at 6pm. Luckily I received a reply off a warm shower host 20km south of Picton. So route changed again. I arrived at 7.30pm just in time for tea. Rene and his wife were great hosts. So relaxed about life. He advised me to take the Molesworth station trail to Hanmer springs. What great advice. One of the highlights of my trip.

Arriving at Picton

Windy crossing

Leaving Wellington

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48ml. Hit Martinborough and called in a bike shop for a new cassette. Fit a new chain and 36/12 cassette, old one was 34/11. Hills are steep here so hopefully I can get up a little easier now. I took the Ripataku rail trail to upper Hutt, wow great trail but headwind all the way up the 7km climb. The wind blew me off the bike once. Lovely scenic route to Upper Hutt. I stayed at warm shower host’s, Baden and Shelley’s, fantastic host’s. Very kind and great conversation about their travels.

Shelly and Cliff. Baden left early for work. Missed his picture

Rail trail

One of the old rail tunnels

The Ripataku rail trail.

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76ml. No wind today. Very hot 35°. Great route 52 to Masterson then on a quiet road to martinborough. Warm shower host on longbush rd was Tom. He had to work so left the empty house to me. Beautiful quiet place. Tom was a great host and stayed and talked to me for 2hrs before he left. Loved listening to his travel tales via tandem with his wife.

 

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Wimbledon tavern

30ml. Very windy day quiet rd but extreme heat, lumpy and bad head/side wind meant only 30ml. Great camping spot at the tavern garden though and a few pints of beer too.

Pitch in the beautiful garden

 

World’s longest place name.

Road to Wimbledon

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55ml. Chose the quiet route following the tukituki river. Very emotional after leaving mum. Didn’t leave till 12. Lumpy a lot of the way so hard going in the extreme heat. Arrived at Blackhead campsite at 18.30. nice site right on the sea.

 

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Well after 4wk staying in Havelock North and exploring the area, in between helping out at Napier, I’m heading south tomorrow. Was great visiting fishbike most days and chatting with Brian the owner and wade who had cycled 95% of NZ and gave me advice on routes to take. Here are a few pics of the area around.

One of many ocean wall murals painted all around Napier.

Cycle path running for miles along the beautiful coastline.

Every day view from the bridge at Clive while cycling to Napier

Looking out from one of the many winery’s in the area.

Pie night at Puketapu Tavern

Ride out to Puketapu pub

View from Te Mata peak

Having a laugh and cider with Brian at Fishbike.

Helping out in Napier at Fishbike.

Ride out to Cape kidnappers

 

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Well I arrive at my mum’s Airbnb but only Doug is there. Lots of expletives come out when Doug reslizes it’s me. Ha. Mum  arrives an hour later and is very emotional with happiness as I surprise her with my arrival. Karen, who owns the property is there and very kindly allows me to camp in the big beautiful garden which I share with various fruit trees, lots of plants, lovely lawned grassed areas and 2 chickens. It’s paradise for me and end up staying for 4weeks due to volunteering to help out at a cycle rental shop 14ml away. This was great as it helped cure any boredom I would have through the day and allowed me to spend this extra time with my mum and Doug.

Beautiful sundown view from the garden.

Nightime in the garden

Surprise mum and Doug.

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The big trucks that populate the highways.

54ml. 2 big climbs after leaving Putorino but beautiful scenery again. Eventually you are following the coast and when you arrive at Bay View, the cycle path starts on a network of over 250km around the area of Hawkes bay. Due to the Xmas hols and lots of families visiting I find it hard to get a positive reply from any warm shower host’s but late in the afternoon I get an invitation from Dave and his wife to camp in the beautiful garden. When I arrive they have family staying over from Hastings but welcome me with open arms and sit me down for a great family meal which was delicious. After a great English breakfast made by Dave I set off on a 1.5km journey to surprise my mum and doug for Xmas.

Road to Bay View

Cycle path on the way to Napier.

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54ml. Nice weather again today and had to rejoin state highway 2 so the shoulder isn’t too wide so you have to be careful as it’s a busy road without an alternative. I tried to get to lake Tutira but arrived at a small town called Putorino which had a freedom camping area but it was 13km down a gravel track. I asked in the bar if there was anywhere nearer and the locals said I could camp outside the sports ground around the corner. Happy days. I end up in the bar all night with the locals for a few sherberts or more.

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38ml. I wake, the rain is relentless so I have to shelter until 11.30 before setting off. I stopped to dry the tent out when the sun appeared later in the day. I had now reached Lake Waikaremoana and the scenery was stunning. My progress was slow on the gravel road and I fell off a few times due to loose road surface combined with bad cambers on the bends. My own fault for not pushing the bike on these bad bends but there was no damage to me or the bike due to the low speed. Got a rear wheel puncture but was going again in 15mins after a quick change of tube. After running alongside the lake and the beautiful views for a long way, the road turned back to asphalt, I sheltered in a barn due to a heavy downpour. I waited for a couple of hours for the rain to stop but there was no easing of the downpour, 10ml short of my camping area I walked to the farmhouse to ask permission to sleep in the barn and the farmer said no worries. He made me laugh as I walked away, he told the dog off and told it to wash it’s ears out because it never alerted him to my presence ha.

Beautiful lake Waikaremoana

Beautiful lake Waikaremoana

Camping in a barn

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67ml. Lovely day and got to Murupara for some dinner. After leaving here the road was quiet regarding traffic. I got a 3ml and 5ml section of gravel and then when I arrived at Ruatahuna and filled my water bottles, the gravel section started along with the ascent. The hill wasn’t too steep but it was long and the loose surface made it tricky and harder than normal to pedal a 60kg loaded touring bike. I made it to the top and on the downhill, managed to reach a freedom camping area next to a stream with only me there. It was going dark and I just managed to warm up my Beans on the stove and make a cup of Yorkshire tea before I lost the light and retire into my pitched tent in a lovely spot in the middle of nature. The sound of the running water and sounds of nocturnal animals and insects soon put me to sleep under the star lit sky.

Gravel road on a good section

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23ml. Late start this morning after leaving Dave’s and heading to Havelock North on the east coast via Murupara and lake Waikaremoana. I only got to lake Okora and it was so nice and it had freedom camping on the edge of the lake, I decided to stay there for the night. I travelled to Kerosene creek, after pitching the tent, and the water at the small waterfall was so hot it had steam coming off. Then it was back to the tent for a tin of Irish stew with some bread for my supper before listening all night to the chorus of mating calls from  hundreds of tree frogs.

Freedom camping at Lake Okora

Bike trail to lake Okaro

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52ml. After leaving Phillip and Helen, I head to Te puke then take a quiet road down to Rotorau. I got a last minute reply from warm shower host’s, Jim and Lisa which I was grateful for as I was struggling finding a freedom camping area. As I stopped to check my navigation, a cyclist stopped to ask if I was ok and after a bit of a chat he offered me a place to stay the following night. This is typical of the friendly people here. I camped in Jim and Lisa’s beautiful garden and after chatting for a while about how they came on a working holiday and decided to stay, ( so many people I’ve met here from the UK have done this) I bedded down for the night under the star lit sky. In the morning I took their dog for a walk around the redwoods I explore the thermal springs, a Maori village and the beautiful lake then head to dave the cyclist, who I met the night before, for a few beers, great conversation and a fantastic roast chicken dinner. Turns out Dave’s mate from Auckland is on warm shower and I talked with him on the phone when I was up there. Small world.

Walking the dog through the Redwood’s

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50ml. After a day off and a 50ml ride up the Coramandel peninsula and back, I say goodbye to Maria and Geoff and head to Katikati via the Hauraki rail trail to Waihi. A great trail and very scenic with no obviously no traffic. It’s an old rail line made into agood gravel cycle trail beside flat green pastures, gold mining relic’s and a forrested gorge honeycombed with gold mining tunnels. Then I headed out to Waihi beach and then the last 10ml to my next warm shower host’s, Diane and Ian. I meet a German woman at the end of the street walking her dog and invites me in for a cup of tea and chat about my travels. This hospitality is one of countless times from the kind people of NZ. Diane and Ian are great host’s and let me sleep in my own room with on suite bathroom. Really lovely and kind host’s with a lovely breakfast to help me on my way.

Rail trail

Waihi beach

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32ml. Have no other option than state highway 2. I kept skirting off into the old road but you had to rejoin due to the old road heading into a different direction. Very busy and not a lot of shoulder, in fact the shoulder disappears on the bridges. Not nice on the highways as most seem to be speeding and don’t give you much space when passing, even if nothing is coming the other way. I arrived in Tauranga via Bethlehem to miss out the busy road into town. I arrived at my warm shower host’s for the night, Helen and Phillip and received a warm welcome and was treated as family, as all the host’s have acted in NZ, and had a day off to go up Mt Maunganui. Phillip had already done a 60km ride by the time I surfaced that morning ha. Kids were also great and their manner towards me was as if I was an old friend. So blessed to experience friendly and trusting host’s.

View from Mt Maunganui

 

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75ml.  Arrived in Auckland on 30th Nov and my old mate, Mark chaddy Chadwick picked me up from the airport. He kindly put me up with his girlfriend Kathy in their lovely home and took care of me while I departed south to surprise my mum.

I headed to a warm shower host at Matatoki, south of Thames, via Clevedon, Hunua, Mangatawhini and Miranda, choosing quiet roads. The route was scenic and I struggled the last 20ml due to having new spd shoes and the cleats being in a slightly different position than I was used to. I arrived at Maria and Geoff’s in the evening and pitched my tent in their beautiful garden. Maria served me a lovely broccoli soup and I had a good night’s sleep. In the morning Geoff suggested I stay another day and look up the Coromandal peninsula.

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66ml. Today I reached the Caspian sea and the capital Baku. I can’t go further by road as it’s too cold for me now so I wait here for winter to finish and catch the ferry to Kazakhstan and make my way to China, or I set off back for home on a different route through the Balkans. It’s a great city and lots of sights. I book into the Zion hostel and go sightseeing while I make a decision on my next move.

Yanar Dag. The burning mountain for over 500 years.

The impressive Heydar Aliyev Centre.

Reaching the Caspian sea.

Old city walls.

Flaming towers of Baku.

Mud volcanoes.

Gobastan ancient archeological site.

 

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61ml. After a day off at the restaurant due to torrential rain I make it to Pirsaat but no hotel. I find a empty building with what looks like accommodation blocks at the side and luckily found the caretaker who let me stay on a seetee. Was cold and windy today and was glad to find somewhere just after Pirsaat.

Making a brew on the side of the highway.

Restaurant owner and his sons.

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100ml. Rain forecast for next 2 days so did a big day of milage today on the highway. No scenery to speak of so just head down and give it big licks. Arrived at Kurdamir exit and there was a restaurant set back off the highway 50m so I asked if I could camp and they gave me a bed for the night. Really kind owner and his son’s. I was glad too as it rained all night and the following day.

Lots of fish and fruit vendors on the highway

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61ml. All flat again today. Old road turned bad at Zehham to Sankir so I joined the highway again. Got to VM guesthouse which I booked on booking.com and even after confirmation email from them, they said some guests didn’t check out and decided to stay, so they were full. Found another hostel in town not too far away and was lucky I got last bed.

Beautiful park on the way into Ganja

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68ml. Left Tbilisi after breakfast and took the old road to Rustavi and Gardabani. Apart from a small climb just before Rustavi, the road was flat all the way today. After 33ml I was at the border with Azerbaijan. The Georgian exit was quick but the Azerbaijan entry took about 20mins. It’s a very quiet border post. After that it was a very quiet road all the way to Agstafa. I tried 3 hotels in town, one was full, one wanted 30 manatee (€15) and the last one I got for 20manat (€10). Shit hotel as well. It’s more expensive here than Georgia especially accommodation.

Border post Azerbaijan.

Quiet old road.

Crossing paths with a snake.

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25ml. Short ride to Tbilisi. We t riding around the city to the Vake area to visit 3 bike shops to see if they had my new front caliper brake pads. Not one had them. Bought a spare chain. Found my guesthouse called beautiful. Nice garden and had upstairs to myself with a kitchen. Secure for bike and nice garden with grape vines and pomegranate trees. Also nice view up to Mtatsminda park. Had to wait for Azerbaijan visa and also tried for visa at Iranian embassy. Was refused politely at Embassy of Iran. UK citizens have a hard procedure to obtain a visa. I eventually stay here 8 nights before leaving for Baku.

Peace bridge at night.

Holy trinity cathedral at night.

Way into Tbilisi.

Freedom square.

Holy trinity cathedral.

View from Mtatsminda park.

Leaning clock tower outside puppet theatre.

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16ml. Had a day off today to visit Stalin museum and ride out to old cave city at Uplistsikhe.

Road to Uplistsikhe.

Old cave city.

Stalins parents house in the centre of Gori.

Gori fortress.

Old fortress.

Stalin museum.

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37ml. After a day off in Gori to visit I headed down the old road to Mkskheta. Great quiet road with hardly any traffic but had a bad headwind after dinner making it hard on the neverending false flat. Lost my backeye today also after 6months. Most upsetting. Booked into my guesthouse and had a look around the beautiful cathedral. 2nd largest in Georgia.

Old road to Mkskheta.

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37ml. Rode on the old road today and met Auke and Hilgiem again. We also met a Dutch cyclist coming the other way who had started in Pakistan. After goodbye’s Hilgiem booked her and Auke into the same guesthouse as I’d booked, so was nice to have good company again. We stopped for the last break on the old road on a bench outside a small house and the owner came out and gave us fruit, wine and chacha. Happy days.

Fortress on the old road.

Caucasus mountains still visible.

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41ml. After a fantastic breakfast for 7gel at Zedafoni, I rode on the main highway due to not feeling too well. The old road was hilly and unpaved after Kharagauli, as the owner of the guesthouse told me. Big climb at the end of 4ml and 500m of ascent but the top bit had a 1.7km tunnel so I put my lights on and braved the traffic rather than take the pass. Arrived at guesthouse and only me in it but had a kitchen and radiator in the room. Was cold and windy today.

Leaving Zestaponi on the highway.

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30ml. Set off heading for Bagdati then turned off at Didi to avoid the main highway. Flat road to Didi then had some steep climbs of 13 and 14%. Was cold and rained a few times. Was trying to make it to Kharagauli but I could only find 1 hotel there and after ringing them I couldn’t find out if they had a room available due to the language barrier. It started raining again so I quickly booked a guesthouse called Zedafoni. Great move as the view there was great and the owner fed me and gave me wine and vodka, homemade of course. He even put Liverpool Vs Cardiff on the tele.

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78ml. Set off after the rain stopped and managed to get a workman to hold the dog till I got away, phew. First 50ml was pretty good going mostly down. I sheltered from a thunderstorm and 3 English bike packing cyclists came past. We had a chat for 15mins and they was on a 10day holiday. They came down from ushguli in the dark. I couldn’t believe it. Wow. I managed to make Kutaisi before dark and booked into guesthouse Mariana. I had a few days off here and cleaned the bike and changed the chain, adjusted the brakes. Found a great local restaurant around the corner what did great food and beer. Very cheap also. Happy days. I went to Gelati monestry on one of my days off. Very nice place, unfortunately they were doing renovation work.

Gelati monestry.

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22ml. 8km up to the final summit from Ushguli on a bad road then it was downhill on a worse road. Hard going with the big rocks, mud and deep puddles. Took 4hrs. After 6hrs I arrived at Mele and luckily there was a guesthouse as it started to rain. So I booked in and had another lovely tea and breakfast. Also a dog followed me from ushguli and I couldn’t get rid of it. 30km and it just wouldn’t leave.

Beautiful scenery in the Caucasus leaving ushguli

My bike has had enough of this road lol.

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39ml. Hardest day this trip I think. Rained all day and I was cold. After losing all the height after a big long climb, the asphalt disappeared and turned to mud. This carried on all the way to Ushguli where I booked guesthouse Oliver. Had a lovely tea and breakfast and he dried all my clothes for me. This is one of the highest inhabited settlement’s in Europe at 2,100m.

 

Ushguli.

Approaching ushguli.

The bad road begins.

 

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Day off today and did a hike up to Ushba Glacier. 9hours and approx 20miles and 1,000m of elevation. It’s a shame I can’t show the summits due to the cloud, but mount Ushba summit is 4,710m. Also mount Shelda and mount Maziri. Shdughra waterfall is also on the way which is the highest in Georgia. The Glacier sits at 2,500m. You also pass a police border checkpoint on the way. The policeman I saw gave me water and spoke English and said the Russian border wasn’t far away.

On the way to the trail from Becho.

Border police guard dog.

Memorials to climbers.

Highest waterfall in Georgia.

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59ml. Quite hard with lots of climbing today but heading up to the greater Caucasus range in the north, it’s only to be expected. Very scenic and quiet with traffic. It’s also colder as the altitude is higher. Too cold for the tent so I book into Carpediem guesthouse for 2 nights as I intend to do a hike tomorrow up to the Ushba Glacier.

Enguri Dam.

 

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85ml. After speaking to Harry and Roelie, I decide to take the road up to the Caucasus mountain range and the Svaneti region. I had a good tail wind and managed to get 85ml in. I meet Auke and Hilgiem on the way who were on a break. They are also heading the same route, although I never see them again all route. After Zugdidi the road eased off with traffic and became quieter. I book in a guesthouse at Jvari on the side of the road and have a nice evening with the lovely family who feed me and give me homemade wine.

Road to Zugdidi.

Caucasus coming into view.

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54ml. Steady day and not much climbing. Waited for sun to dry the tent after breakfast. Stopped at a village school about 10km from Vani and spoke with teacher and children. Teacher spoke good English. Booked into a guesthouse, old retro look inside. Old lady was really nice who lived there. I met Harry and Roelie morskate in the evening for a beer and a Georgian meal. Was really nice to catch up with them and get some advice of my next direction. They were my 1st warm shower host’s in Europe, in a small town called Orischot near Eindhoven and are now cycling the world.

On the road to Kutaisi.

Great evening with Harry and Roelie.

 

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49ml. After a day off in Batumi and goodbyes to Auke and Hilgiem, I set off toward Kutaisi through the mad traffic of Georgia. Tried to visit the botanical gardens on the way but it was still closed. Seems work and places open later here in Georgia. Looked around the Petra fortress ruin on way. Was a little hilly today but as the day went on it became more flat. I wild camped next to the river on the old road towards Vani.

Petra fortress.

View of black sea coast from Petra fortress

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25ml. Steady day but was really dangerous approaching the border. All the trucks are queued up in the slow lane in the tunnels near the border and other vehicles are racing through at great speed in the lane we are trying to pass the stationary trucks. This was a sign of a big change to come on the roads. Driving is chaotic and fast. Speeding by everybody, horn’s constantly sounding, and close overtaking. On approach to Batumi, Auke and Hilgiem were in front and a car swerved at speed towards them. I thought it was going to be another terrorist attack, like one in Tajekistan not long ago. Then he swerved back. As he came past he was laughing like it’s a big joke. Dogs are also very aggressive here and chase as if they are going to attack. If you stop they turn away but if there’s a pack you have to stop and shout aggressive at them or they keep on coming. Hike in prices also here for food and accommodation.

The Black sea and into Georgia.

Batumi center.

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40ml. Another great cycling day. After coming through the 6km tunnel at the top of the mountain, the landscape seems to have changed to lush green with tea plantations on the hillsides. No frost here for the tea to be able to grow. A totally different climate. Booked into a hotel. Last in Turkey as we cross the border into Georgia tomorrow.

Hilgiem exiting the long tunnel on the way down to Hopa.

Tea growing on the hillsides.

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45ml. Great scenery again. 45 tunnels in 75kms. Make sure your lights work on this stretch. Lost all out height when arrived at Artvin turn off. Then it was a 310m climb up to the town. Teachers guesthouse was full so had to book a hotel. No where to camp near here.

Flooded town with mineret visible.

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50ml. Great day on a quiet scenic road. Couldn’t stop taking photos. Great weather also and booked into nice teachers guesthouse. This town won’t be here in a few years. A new dam is being built and Yusufeli will be flooded.

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22ml. Easy day after packing up tents. Stopped at a village for çha and mulberry jam with locals and to dry tents out in the sun. Checked into teachers guesthouse. Washed some clothes, had a cut throat shave at barbers. Also changed rear brake pads and cleaned the chain.

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60ml. Tried to get to Ispir but couldn’t make it due to fading light. Still riding with Auke and Hilgiem. Quiet road but bad headwind and hilly towards the end. Steep climbs but nice scenery. Wild camp at side of river and early to bed. Dark at 6pm.

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50ml. After a hearty breakfast and a good start to the day, the rain came. Weade for shelter in a small mountain village called Yuvacik. A local man invited us to shelter in his home and it turns out he was the mayor. Great meal and lots of çha. Lovely family and after goodbye’s we managed to get to a teacher’s guesthouse just before dark.

Village mayor and great hospitality again.

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59ml. Good day on the bike today but arrived late and teachers guesthouse plus the cheap hotel were full. Had to negotiate with the reception at a posh hotel and eventually got a room for €10 Inc breakfast. Still with Dutch couple. It’s nice to have English speaking company.

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47ml. Big climb today, 2010m but long 17ml downhill. 2 punctures today so also swapped front and rear tyres, as the rear wears down quicker due to the weight. Rode with Auke and Hilgiem again and booked into teachers guesthouse just as it went dark. 35TL for my own room with 3 beds in it.

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46ml. Rode with the Dutch couple, Auke and Hilgiem. Steady day and temperature was warmer. Big temperature drop at night though so booked into otel 2,000 for €5.

 

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57ml. Cold day, lots of flat and long false flats upwards. Arrived at Sarkisla and while passing the school I was invited in for çha again and a talk with the teachers. The head gave me a Turkish flag so I put it on my saddlebag. I stayed at a warm shower host called Burcin and he was a great guy and it was his birthday. There was also a dutch couple on bikes staying so it was a great evening.

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54ml. Very lumpy up and down all day but hardly saw any cars. Great quiet road. One 5km bad stretch of unsurfaced road but good after that and wild camped about 5km south of Sarkisla.

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40ml. Late start after breakfast and good byes at Turkers, and wow what a big ramp to get out of town. Called in the mini market at Gulluce and the owner invited me for food and cha at his house next door. He locked the shop and his wife made me a lovely meal. Great Turkish hospitality again. Then 2 villages along at Hazarsah I’m invited again by a farmer who introduces me to his family. Really nice family. Again it’s hard to make any plans with all the invites ha.

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20ml. Had a day off and borrowed Turkers bike. Went to underground city then into town for some winter clothes. Met Turker at Decathlon where he works and then went to pick the bike up. Rode back with Turker and had a great take away kebab.

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After 4 nights in Goreme and lots of sight seeing I set off for warm shower host, Turker, at Kayseri. I elect to take the old road instead of the highway to Urgup, Incesu, and Kiziloren. Wow the long climb out of Urgup was so steep. I had to get off and push for the first time on this trip. It was impossible to maintain momentum up the relentless steep parts. I had a problem with the brakes making horrible noise so I stopped and took the wheel and pads out. Ah ha. The piston on the front caliper has broken and the rear rotor blade is bent. I changed the chain and adjusted the brakes yesterday and everything was ok. I’m baffled. Well Turker told me to wait at his friends bike shop as he doesn’t finish work until 8 so I go there and Ali takes a look and says I need new rotor and new front caliper. He doesn’t have sram BB7 caliper so he will change for Shimano tomorrow. Turker turns up and we eat and have a couple of beers then their friend who speaks English drives us back to the apartment. Turker says I can stay as long as I want. Bike not ready till 4pm tomorrow due to waiting for a part so I stay another night. I go to the underground city at Tamas on turkers bike and shop for some winter boots as I’ll need them if I’m heading to Georgia.

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51ml. Bit warmer today but still very windy. Always seems to be a cross or headwind ha. Mainly flat after I reached the highway. Nevsehir is a bustling city but nice. Booked Ali’s guesthouse at Goreme for 4 nights and arrived at 6pm. I want to look around Cappadocia area so staying here for a few days.

Saying goodbye to Tamer and Engin

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57ml. Very windy and cold today. Big temperature drop. Diverted off highway to go and see Ilhara. Viewed the gorge and a place where starwars was filmed. Was going to try star camping but met two Turkish cycle tourers outside a cha shop. Tamer and Engin invited me over for cha and asked me to join them camping in the garden of the mosque. I had a nice meal and breakfast and Tamer wouldn’t let me pay a single lira. Really kind and nice guys. Was cold camping tonight.

 

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77ml. Mostly flat today on main highway again due to aabad headwind. came off about 20ml before Sultanhani and headed for Gunesli through some nice villages. Camped here at Kervansaray camping for £2.50 and had a great meal for £3.

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74ml. Took route to Beysehir then cut across at Huyuk. Lumpy day making it hard going. Especially as it’s 39*. But last 5ml is downhill. Konja is massive city and I couldn’t find a warm shower host to put me up so I had to book in a hotel. Was really nice for €10 Inc buffet breakfast. Was well worth it. Even evening buffet for 25TL was brill. £2.50. was well full up.

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60ml. Fairly flat day today. Egirdir was nice and arrived at Sarkikaraagac and found the teachers guesthouse for 25TL after a scruffy hotel wanted 60. Also had my best meal in turkey so far 20TL. Happy days.

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79ml. Wild camp at side of road. Just couldn’t make Egirdir where there’s a campsite as it was going dark and I was on a highway. The main highways are good as they have a big shoulder and you can get some milage in, but there’s nothing.uch to see as in scenery.

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57ml. Another hilly day. Seemed to be on a plateau at 1,000m but always going up to 1,600m then down to 1,000m again. Pulled off the highway at Tefenni to look around the town and on the way out I see otel Pansiyoni and it was only 40Turk lira so I stay there. I have a nice shower and a great kofte meal and drink for 10TL then settle to bed.

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32ml After a week on Rhodes and a break with Andy and Sandra it’s time to move on to on toTurkey. I get the ferry to Fethiye and it’s 18.30 when I get off and dark soon. Luckily I’ve arranged to stay at Dave and Maureen greenwoods house, from Padiham, who live here now. They were really kind and fed me and looked after me. What a stroke of luck. I ride up a 14ml climb and just as I start to descend, I ask at a restaurant if I can camp there, which they let me sleep on the premises on a bed. Hard, hot day.

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After deciding to carry on with the journey, I’m catching the ferry to Rhodes to pick up my new glasses, contact lenses and tent pole from Andy whose going there on holiday and kindly fetched my items which my sister’s kindly sorted out for me back in the uk. Thanks Deborah and Karen.

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27ml. Short day, caught the ferry to Selina island then rode across the island to get the ferry to Piraeus. Rode to old site where I used to park waiting to clear customs and had a drink in Dennis cafe where I used to go when I was truck driving, 30yrs ago. After a chat with Dennis, I rode to Athens center to a hostel and stayed there for 4 nights. Went around the acropolis site which was amazing before catching the over night ferry to Rhodes. I met Andy and Sandra here who brought me out some new contact lenses, glasses and a new tent pole. Week off here before moving on to Turkey.

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46ml. First 10ml was a hard false flat then it was easy going rest of the way. I called into the ancient site at Corinthos during the afternoon. Had a meal in the city and then went over the corinthos canal. Used to go over here in the truck but never took a photo. Amazing piece of construction. Then heading for Piraeus I came across a camping site at Glaros. So I stayed here on a nice site right on the sea.

 

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43ml. First start to the day after my coffee in the restaurant and goodbyes to the nice owners, was a 7ml climb. 1,300m. Then downhill all the way to Sparta. Had a look around and took a photo of the famous king leonidas of 300 fame. Another long climb heading to Tripoli and near the top of the climb another great restaurant who let me pitch on a lovely flat spot on their garden.

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45ml. Hilly day today. Up to Kalamata then headed for Sparta on old road. Headed up another climb and got a puncture. It was an old stock on patch which came unstuck. I’m using glue, the old style in future instead of the self adhesive stick on one’s. Was starting to go dark when I came across a restaurant outside the village and they let me camp opposite on a small piece of flat land. The nephew of the owner spoke good English and it was a cracking meal.

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79ml. Headed to Kalamata today, had to shelter 1.5hrs from thunderstorm, had a bad headwind and my 1st puncture in 5,600km’s. Andrew who has a villa where i ended up, met me on his motorbike about 10ml from Kalamata with cold drink and sandwich. I followed him to Kalamata and when we got to Stupa, he towed me the 7ml up a mountain to his village. It was just going dark as we got there, so the 1st assistance i’d had riding the bike  in over 5.600km’s was greatly appreciated. Time off here and a well earned rest.

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28ml. Early start today and cycled to Olympua to go and visit the museum’s and archaeological site. Very interesting place and history about how the olympic games first started. Was fascinating. Then I rode on th a campsite at Tholo. Was a nice old site stuck in an old hippy type feel lol. so i went for a swim in the sea and had a meal and few beers before bed.

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25ml. Easy ride today. I stopped in a village to eat and drink in the shade and a car pulled up. The girl in the back asked me where i was from and invited me to the house for cold drinks. I followed them to the house and they fed me and gave me drinks and we shared stories. I didn’t want to leave as we was getting on so great. The dad was called Alex and he spoke decent English and it was his birthday. I said goodbyes and was wobbling all over the road with the drinks i’d had so i just set up camp in a field at the side of the road about 5ml from Ancient Olympus where they advised me to go and visit. Was a shame to leave them i can tell you. The girl also had a friend who was cycling the world and thats why i think we got on so well.

Alex and family.

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24ml. up and down roads today a bit lumpy. Route i chose was really quiet but the road ended due to a collapse so i had to wade through a river twice to meet it again after the collapse. I ended up getting to a village and stopped for a cold drink and asked to camp so they let me stay at the local church about a km out of the village. 4 kids took me there on the bikes and showed me the way and in the evening i went to the village for a great meal and a few beers.

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54ml. bit hilly again at the start of the day but after muesli brekky i was off and soon hit the bridge for Patra in the afternoon but after being stopped by the highway maintenance telling me i couldn’t cross the bridge but had to get the ferry across about 1km away and it was free so an added bonus. I managed to get to a village and asked the store owner if i could camp on the small sports ground but he said kids played there till 11pm so i could camp in his small landau the rear of his shop so we drank beer and chatted all night. great bloke.

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50ml. Called into Karpenisi at the bottom of the mountain and called into a garage and the owner spoke English and helped me repair the broken tent pole so at least if i’m careful it should last a little longer. I had an 11.5 ml mountain to climb today and it took me 4hrs in the heat.It was very steep in places so i had plenty of rests along the way. I came downhill at the other side and asked a shepherd if i could camp in the field just out of town and he said no problem so i made some soup and had a brew then into bed.

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51ml. Hard day in the heat again. 2 mountains seemed to be going up all day. Camped a field off the road at the top of the mountain and just as it was going dark. Tent pole segment snapped as i was erecting the tent so slept best i could in half erected tent. 

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56ml. After looking round one of the Monasteries and saying goodbye to Martin and Cathy, i set off heading for Patra. It was a good flat route today and very hot at 40 plus again. I took my time today and arrived at a small village called Anavra and asked if i could camp on the football field at the local bar and they said yes so i had a few beers and a really good meal. Happy days. Even the sports field had a toilet, running water and an electric socket to charge my gadgets.

 

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34ml. Good day again on mainly quiet roads again and arrived at the very impressive Kalembaca and Meteore monasteries. We rode up to the top and wild camped on quiet land near a small church where it was deserted. It was a hard climb in the plus 40heat.

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37ml. Set off from the old school house with the Canadian couple, Martin and Cathy bound for Meteore monasteries. We said our goodbyes to Filippos and left on quiet roads all day long. We stopped in a small village at a restaurant who said we could camp opposite on the grass but it was a bad nights sleep due to the familiar sound of dogs barking all night.

Filippos, Martin and Kathy outside the school house warm shower stay in Xirolimni

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78ml. One hard day today. I think after my tummy problems I was weak from not eating and I thought I only had 66 ml to get to warm shower host but it was 78 and somebody put a 12ml mountain in the way. Wow I nearly gave in a few times. I’d no energy but arrived at the old school hall where I slept at 8pm. There was 2 couples there already who were touring around the world. A Canadian couple who I met briefly in Albania and a German couple on a tandem. I went to the village concert that night and met the mayor who was the warm shower host and who let’s lots of cyclists sleep in the old school hall. Filippos was a great guy. I was so shattered I had a days rest here in the village. before heading to Meteore.

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34ml set off late today due to waiting for bike parts that never turned up. So left Vaso and the guesthouse about 1 and rode through the border I used to drive through with the truck 30yrs ago. Wow on the north Macedonian side there’s fancy casino/restaurant and hotels been built. I rode to the old truck stop where I used to stay and eat and drink but that’s all closed down. I met a warm shower host at polykastro called Tassos and he rode about 20ml with me till I found a wild camp spot. Great guy. I set up tent for the night and was good not to wake up for the toilet. Think my tummy is better.

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42ml. Left Nick at the room today and set off for Gevgelia. He was heading into Bulgaria. I Headed to Demia Kapija on the way to the Greek border. This was a great little village where a lot of climbers go. There’s a campsite here but it’s not far to Gevgelia so i carry on along an old road along side of the railway track and it’s not a good road for 10miles. I have to get off and walk in a few spots because of the bad surface. I eventually meet tarmac again then it’s back on gravel shortly after but a lot smoother and make better progress. It runs alongside of the motorway and theres an entrance into the services so i go for drink and food before the final push. I reach Gevgelia and book in Jana guesthouse. I like it here and decide to stay 4 nights to hopefully get better from my stomach problem. The 2nd day here i go for a coffee and order some spare disc pads for my bike at a great bike shop in town. While having coffee i meet Sarah who is a cycle tourist from Denmark and we have a coffee and then she is looking for a room so i take her to my guesthouse and Vasi makes space for Sarah to stay. We have coffee and food with Vasi and great conversation. I’m in awe of Sarah as she has travelled alone a long time all the way to China and back, wow. I find out all the info i can from Sarah and listen to great stories. She stays for two nights which is great for the company. Tomorrow I cross the border into Greece and Burnley play in Istanbul in europe cup but it’s only 6 days away and i’m 820km away so i’m thinking of getting part way there then getting a bus to Istanbul but it depends on my stomach problem which is not improving much.

Sarah the long distance cyclist from Denmark. Great lass

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68ml. Bad night last night. was up 3 times for toilet and each time was eaten alive with mozzies. stomach cramps also. We rode through Prilep then had to the the main highway to Negotino as this was the only route possible. long climb up which was hard in the heat and with the runs so had to stop about 8 times for the roadside toilet today. At the top we had about a 12ml downhill which was good compensation. Nick agreed to share a room with me in Negotino as i couldn’t have another night camping with my stomach like it was. He booked a twin room on line with the phone and it was a relief to have a nice toilet lol.

Statue of king Marko in Prilep

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35ml. Used the old road today deserted but lot of stretches on it with annoying cobbled surface. Lovely small church at the top of the big hill we went up. Met a guy from London who lived in China teaching English. He was on a 3wk tour of the Balkans. Unfortunately he’d had 2 punters on the cobbles but he had a road bike with thin tyres. I got a tummy bug or something and it got worse as the day went on. Me and Nick wild camped after the road ran out in a field so we asked a farmer who said it was ok to camp there.

wild camp at Lake Prespa

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40ml. After packing up our wild camp me and Nick head down by Ohrid where nick has his bike chain repaired, then we follow the lake to the climb over the mountain to lake Prespa. It’s another hot day and the elevation at the top is 1,600m but the climb is only steep at the beginning then its a quite easy 6 or 7% gentle climb of about 10miles. There’s no shop’s and only two water stops on the way over the mountain. The scenery is spectacular. We head for a wild camp spot on lake Prespa.

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46ml. After leaving Shupenze i head for Peshkopi but at the crossroads at Maqellare, I decide to turn right and head straight into Macedonia, after talking with another cycle tourist who’s just come from Peshkopi. I spent my last Albanian Lek in the last restaurant on a nice plate of Goulash and go through the border. Just as i wait for my passport the German tourer comes called Nick so i ride with him for the next 3 days as we’re heading the same way. Along the way we see another lone tourer called Sandra so we have a coffee with her and then ride together until her turn off where she has a room booked. We make it to Struga and wild camp in a field across from the lake Orhid.

Sandra heading for her booked room for the night

Albanian/Macedonian border check point.

Turning right to Macedonia from here.

 

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53ml. After leaving Tonin’s family I ride towards Peshkopi. A lot off climbing again today and manage to get to Shupenze. I don’t fancy wild camping as the towns spread out Peshkopi is still too far to reach as it’s going dark and also the weather looks like heavy rain on it’s way so i have a meal in the village, a lovely chicken  with salad and homemade chip’s, again a massive portion. Then i book a room at the gas station for 10euro.

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45ml. After a break of 4 days in Shkoder i set off towards Peshkopi so i head down to Tirana and turn off at Lezhe and head for Burrel.It’s a lot of climbing and some tunnels and after filling up with water at what seemed like the middle of nowhere an old lady ask’s if i like to eat. It looks like an old restaurant what no one uses anymore. There’s no sign up, so i ask for a beer and sit at a table facing the river with a beautiful view. Then the rain comes so i have another beer and decide to eat. The meal is massive, 3 fish, salad and a basket of bread. Then the husband comes who speaks no english but talks to me for a long time even though i don’t really understand. I then ask if i can camp in the garden and the son comes home who speaks a little English and they make a bed for me in the house for no charge and i stay the night. They also fill a table with food later that evening for me and the husband to eat but i am full from the meal earlier. They were so kind, charged my devices and free bed.

Me with Tonin the son

Great cook and lovely, Tonin’s mother

Lovely house at the river where i stayed

Roadside view of Tonin’s house

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64ml. After the 10ml to the ferry jetty it was 20ml down Komani lake. A most spectacular journey with beautiful scenery all the way. The cost was 12 euro with the bike and took 2hrs. After exiting the ferry and filling my bottles with water i Headed for Shkoder which was another 35ml on a fairly hilly road which followed the rest of the river. My garmin temp reading was 40* so was a hard ride in the heat with no escape from the sun. I heard of a hostel on warm showers where you can camp for free in the garden but i forgot the name and ended up at the wrong hostel paying 7euro a night foe an outside bed. I should have gone to green garden hostel but the warm shower app stopped working so i couldn’t find the name or address. I stayed in Shkoder for 4 nights for a rest and weather was also bad with rain on 1 day.

on the Komani ferry

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36ml. I have a day off to go up to Valbona valley national park within the Albanian Alps. It’s 17.5ml up to the road ends from Bajram curri but well worth the effort. Great scenery all the way. I couldn’t stop taking pictures.

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64ml inc 20ml on ferry. Early start from real hotel at Bajram. Arrived at Fieza for the ferry which takes you down a very scenic narrow komani lake. Beautiful scenery on the 2hr journey. After getting off the ferry it’s about 32ml to Shkoder. The road is lumpy for 20ml and surface is  loose stone in places. The garmin temp gauge reads 40* so it’s a hard slog. I arrive in Shkoder around 5pm and book into backpackers hostel for a few days off.

all aboard the Komani lake ferry.

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36ml. Not really a day off today but left all the luggage in my room so it was a climb with less weight. Great scenery, i couldn’t stop taking photo’s. About 17.5 ml up there but not too steep.

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37ml. I decide to head into Albania instead of going to Macedonia. I ride south to Ponashec and turn right to head to the border. It’s a gentle climb up to 560m. Through the border and head to Bajram curri to see if i can find info about the best route to Shkoder. I meet a group of tour cyclists from Belgium who are on a supported guided tour and their guide advises me to take the Komani ferry from Fieze, 16kms down the road. I’ve missed todays so i book into Real hotel for 15euro B&B. What a meal in the evening wow. I decide to stay 2 nights and go to see Valbona national park the day after.

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71ml. After leaving my accommodation this morning I cycle to Peja. Quite a flat route here and Peja is a bustling little city. I try the only 2 guesthouses i can find, Saroc and Stonebridge and both are full. I try Hotel camp Karagaq. They have a room but it is 35 euro. Wow but even the dorm beds at the guesthouses were 30 euro. So i decide to take the hit as i’m knackered and can’t be bothered to find wild camping further down the road. Well i go for a look around town and it’s really busy but a great little place with lot’s of bar’s, coffee shop’s, eateries and even night clubs. I have to say though, accommodation expensive yes but you can eat full meals for 2 euro’s and beer is 1 euro so happy day’s.

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50miles. Eventful day, followed mapsme up a 10ml mountain towards Peje. 2 hrs later I’m heading down and the road folks ontian even shitter dirt road. I pass a house with a flag flying outside and wave to the man outside. Little did I know this is the kosovan border. Next thing a Jeep comes and tells me to follow him. We go back to the house and he rants passport, he takes me in a room and we can’t understand each other. He’s fuming. He goes and gets someone who luckily speaks English. I have to turn back this is not a crossing you can use. Ffs, all the way back to Novi pazar and start again. Now it’s raining ha. Just my luck. I end up having to go to Raska then through the border heading for mittovice. I only get about 10miles through the border and have to check into only motel as it’s pissing down and dark soon. I check my route for tomorrow to Peje and it’s same as if I was starting again ha. Day lost but loved it. In hindsight, it was a good thing as when I tried to exit Kosovo I wouldn’t have had a entry stamp and could have been in trouble. Happy days.

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24mile. After the early start from Priboj i climb a never ending hill. when i reach what i think is the summit at Nova Varos i head for Sjenica and it rises up again to 11% for about a mile. I’ve nothing left in my legs and i see a camping sign only 4.5kms away so i call it a day there at camping Zlatar. It’s only 1.30 so i set up the tent and shower then clean all the slug marks off my mat and sleeping bag. Feel better now. It’s a lovely camping place in a back garden really, of somebody’s house and after tea time the heavens open for about 2hrs so i go in the kitchen and mess on the phone to try and plan my future route which i’m still not sure about. Great scenery today but sore legs.

 

 

 

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52miles. Waited for the sun to break through the cloud so as to dry the tent. Thats the problem when you’re high up. Thought i’d be downhill for a while today which i was at first then seemed to never stop climbing again. Finally got to sjenica and after a look around town and getting a Burec i carry on into a small village and a 16yr old lad on a bike stops me to speak English. He tells me he loves cycling and the next 20mile to Novi Pazar is downhill, which i take with a pinch of salt. After saying goodbye i set off down a steep hill and boy was he right. I had to shelter from the rain for about 45mins on the way down but about 5kms from the city it starts to rain again but Wien hostel is on my left so i pull in and i decide to stay here for 10 euro.

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63mile. After saying bye to Harris in the morning as i’m packing up my tent, I head to Gorazde and take a look around the town then i head for Visegrad. Lot’s of tunnels through the cliffs skirting the river so have to put the lights on. It’s early when i get there so decide to press on after a look around the town. It’s been very hilly again so when i arrive on the outskirts and find a wild camping spot, I’m disturbed by some young undesirables so i move on in to the city where i look for a Hostel. It’s late and dark now but the Hotel ask’s too much so i wild camp in someone’s garden. Not ideal as i’m hidden under some trees but decide i’ll leave at 1st light. I awaken after a bad nights sleep tp discover i’m covered in slug’s as i slept on my mat in the open Grrrr. I pack away fast and set off into the cool mist heading for Sjenica.

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41mile. After 6 days rest in Sarajevo to watch the world cup and be disappointed when England go out in the semi’s, Its on to Serbia. I head for Gorazda but on the mountain top before dropping down, I have a problem with the back brakes just as the rain comes down. I shelter under a tree and remove all the panniers and the back wheel. Disc pads are gone so i replace with my spares and Harris walks by, a local farmer tending his sheep and ask’s if i’m ok. He speaks good English and tells me where he lives if i need any help. After repairing the brakes i decide to wild camp on top of the mountain and Harris comes back and says i can go foe coffee if i like. I set up tent and after the rain stop’s i go to his farmhouse and have some coffee and homemade cheese and bread with home grown tomatoes that his mother prepares and speak about lot’s of thing’s. If everyone was like him, the world would be a better place. A really nice man and his mum also.

Harris and his Mother.

wild camp on top of the mountain

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68ml. After 4 nights at the cycle camp outside Mostar i set off for Sarajevo. At Potoci village i take the right turn over the mountain to head for Konjic. It’s a 9mile climb to start with but i chose this route as the E73 route is a bit narrow and the main highway so quite busy with trucks. When you reach the summit and start going down the road turns to loose gravel so it was slow going for about 15km but the views were fantastic. At Konjic i’m advised by a local that the road isn’t so bad over to Sarajevo so i take this E73 otherwise it would be a night camping out as the other way would have taken me too long. There’s 2 tunnels going this way, the 1st is only short but still advisable to put lights on the bike. The 2nd tunnel is quite long so i decide to take the pass over the top which isn’t so bad as you already have a lot of height and never saw a car going this route, then it’s downhill all the way to Sarajevo.

I stay at a warm shower host’s, Selim, up in the hills about 10ml from Sarajevo old town. The morning after we talk and have coffee before i go to old town Sarajevo and book into the Doctor’s house hostel as it’s world cup football and I want to see the games.

9ml climb from mostar, 1st summit

Sarajevo in the distance

Selim, warm shower host just outside Sarajevo

Eternal flame Sarajevo

Mostar in the far distance

 

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15ml. Just a short journey today, into Mostar to look around and take photos. A beautiful old town which was badly destroyed in the 94 war. Even the stari most ( old bridge) has been built back to its former glory after recovering stones from the bombed bridge which lay in the river below. Then 7km north heading to Sarajevo, to stay at Zemljani cycle camp. A great host, Bambi, a chilled out guy who has a project going with great vision of the future. Great to talk to and a kind, helpful guy. Was a pleasure to meet him and Emir the bike mechanic.

Stari most, old bridge

Buildings still bear the scar’s from 94

Zemljani cycle camp

Bambi the great host showing his muscles

View from cycle camp.

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48ml today. After packing up I’m hit straight away with a 5.5ml climb over to trpanj. Took me 1hr and then a nice long downhill into trpanj for the ferry to Ploce. I find a quiet road heading for Mostar which runs parallel to the main highway. I spend the rest of my kuna in a supermarket before crossing into Bosnia and Herzegovina. It’s mark here which is 2 to 1 for the euro. It’s mostly flat all the way to Mostar and I decide to camp at Buna on the river as it’s 18.30pm and it’s been a long day with waiting for the ferry 2hrs. My intended stop was Zemljani cycle camp 7km north of Mostar but I think it’s better to sightsee Mostar in the morning on the way there. Beautiful camp at Buna and the owner Gaga is a real friendly guy. I set up the tent and go to a nearby bar to watch world cup football.

Typanj