46ml. After leaving hostel Azul and the long uphill out of Granada I arrive at Rivas and do a little food shopping before going to San Jorge and catching the ferry to Ometepe island which is dominated by 2 volcanoes, active concepción in the islands north and Maderas volcano in the south of the island. It’s a beautiful place and I stay for 4 nights on the island. I ride around to Santa Cruz after my 1st nights stay at Hostel Caballo and stay at another hostel Los Coco’s on the shore of the ride lake. Then I ride to Altagracia then Moyogalpa. I book in abuelos hostel for 2 nights and I really enjoyed my stay here. After here I will be in Costa Rica within one days ride. Nicaragua was a very nice country although I didn’t see enough of it and I will hope to return again to see more and hopefully hook up with Barry again.

A nice view of the cloud covered Conceptión volcano

Beautiful small church on route around the island

Volcano Conceptión

Island morning life

Arriving at Moyogalpa with volcano Conceptión in the background

Catching the ferry to Ometepe



30ml. A steady day to Granada, a beautiful place that sits on Lake Nicaragua. It’s the oldest town in Nicaragua and home to multiple Spanish landmarks that survived repeated Spanish invasions. I book in at Hostel Azul for 2 nights and have a look around the beautiful town. The next day Barry comes and takes me to see the beautiful lake and up in the hills to his Christian school, he has 2, and introduces me to his lovely Korean wife Suzanna. They then take me to a great viewing spot at Catarina for some photos then it’s back for a meal to Granada. After a nice meal they drop me back at the hostel and it’s goodbye. Was really nice to see him after all these years.


Barry and Suzanna


View from Catarina viewing spot

Granada cathedral



58ml. I decided to not have a day off and head to Managua and meet Barry Davies, a man from Padiham where I grew up. He was free today so I set off and it was very windy and making it slow going. I turned onto R28 and ran alongside Lake Xolotlán. While I stopped for a break at the lake Barry arrived in his pickup truck which was really handy as I now didn’t have to fight the wind for the last 20mls. Barry took me for the best steak I’ve ever had and we chatted about how his life changed when he was in his 20’s. I haven’t seen him for 40years. It’s an interesting story and it fascinated me. After the meal he took me to town and found me a cheap hotel for the night. I never saw any tourists when I went for a walk and there was armed soldiers on the main streets. There was a student uprising here a while back and not many tourists arrive here now so all the hostels have gone out of buisiness.




43ml. Very hot day again but nice sscenery since the border with volcanoes in view along the way. I got to Leon and Marco, the Italian cyclist I met in la Paz was here so I stayed at the Mango’s hostel where he was at. Leon was a very nice town with a big town square and lots of people. I might stay another day and have a good look around.

The beautiful Leon

Active volcano on route

On the road to Leon



56ml. Well after leaving my hotel, it wasn’t too long before I reach the border of Nicaragua. 1.5hrs later and I’m through riding on pretty quiet roads and I was hoping to make it to Chinandega. After realising it would be too late and get dark before getting there I looked for a place to camp. I asked a family who were sitting outside their home if they knew a good spot and they said I could camp in the garden next to the house. We talked using Google translate and they were very poor but seemed really happy as they always do. 4 kids, brother and his wife and grandmother all stayed in the same house. After packing my tent in the morning I was given some breakfast and coffee which was really kind of them and said farewell.

Some of the very kind family

Beautiful scenery and quiet route after the border

At the border.


301ml. This was done over 7days riding. Day 1- 66ml. Well after camping in the garden and repairing the puncture last night I ride to Cuyamel but the ATM didn’t accept my card so I got to Omoa and the petrol station had a ATM that worked with my card so I celebrated with a coffee and milky way. Not a good highway to San Pedro Sula but I find a cheap hotel in the center and decide to have a day off. It’s supposed to be a dodgy place to stay with a high crime rate but it was ok. I didn’t go out at night and it was an ok city, but all the shops had armed guards which is a familiar sight now and one cafe I went in had a sign on the door which was scary.

Day 2. 43ml. To Santa Cruz de Yojoa. After my day off the rain was falling but I put on my waterproofs and hit the road. Another puncture with the thin wire from truck tyres. I eventually reach a hotel and decide to call it a day but after checking in, he comes back with the TV remote and asks why I’m leaving at 6.30pm. Its only a love hotel, so I pack my gear and leave as you have to pay by the hour which makes it really expensive. I have to head off the highway to the next town. After a climb up I again get a hotel which cost too much. Just before I get to the town and I come to estacion bomberos. I ask if I can stay and they gladly say yes and let me sleep in the fire station canteen. Great guys and really friendly. The rain is relentless all night and the next day so I stay another night.

Day 3. 45ml to Siguatepeque. After saying goodbye I head back to the highway and it’s a bit chilly and grey to start but then after dinner it got hot again. It’s uphill most of the way and great views along lake Yojoa. I arrive at a nice town and check into a nice hotel San Carlos.

Day 4. 34ml to Villa de San Antonio. Lot of climbing again today but arrive at a warm shower host, Tulio, a great guy who speaks good English. I meet him in the central park, which is a beautiful little spot and locals are singing and playing music. Great little town and the nicest town square I’ve seen for a while.

Day 5. 45ml to Conception de Oriente. More climbing today along the beautiful and quiet Canal Seco route. Very hot and I call into a village called Caridad but after the municipality trying to find someone to let me stay there was no joy so I headed to the next town Aramecina. On the way a saw a sign se vende cuarto, which I thought meant room, but it said cuajada, which means we sell cheese. Anyway after my broken Spanish he gave me a room to sleep in for £2.20 and the family let me shower and fed me. Really overwhelmed.

Day 6. 40ml to Jicaro galan. Steady day mostly flat today. After leaving the Canal Seco route and hitting the highway where it splits for El Salvador, I stop and change my chain as I’ve plenty of time. I’m heading to another warm shower host tonight but he’s not home till 4pm. I soon have a crowd gathered to watch me replace the chain but they’re all nice and ask many questions and I answer best I can with my shit Spanish. I meet a french cyclist coming the other way just before getting to Juan’s house and he’s also staying there but thinks it’s in the next town as the location is wrong on the warm shower app. Anyway we arrive and receive a warm welcome from Juan who speaks good English. A nice and kind host and we sleep outside in the garage area but was a bad nights sleep due to the ants and mozzies.

Day 7. 28ml. To Choluteca. After goodbye to Kevin the young french cyclist and Juan, I head to the Nicaraguan border. It’s really hot again and due to the intense heat and possibly no where to stay near the border l find a cheap hotel and have an easy day. Honduras was nice and again was full of nice people. I would like to come back and see more one day.

Caridad town square

Along Canal Seco

Canal Seco

The local musicians and singers in San Antonio square

The beautiful church in the town of villa de San Antonio

Great views following lake Yojoa

Staying with the bomberos at Santa Cruz de Yojoa

Sign on cafe door at San Pedro

The beautiful green Honduras






267ml. Done in 5 days cycling. This part of Guatemala was nice. There’s a lot to see in this beautiful country like lake Atitlán and Antigua further down but there’s quite a lot of tourists there and I prefer the quiet and for me, I think that you get a better experience with locals and culture away from the tourist hubs. Also less expensive ha.
Day 1, I ride to Yaxla national park. The road to the park is 11km from the highway and in terrible condition but after paying for the ticket, you can stay as many days as you like and camp for free on the side of lake Yaxhá. A beautiful quiet place with pyramids. Cheaper and quieter than the site at Tikal. After packing my tent away I go 47ml to Flores. A beautiful little town on an island, and I stay in a cheap hostel for the night. A beautiful place to look around and in the morning I leave early for Poptun, not knowing I’ve left my passport on the bed.
I ride 62ml to warm shower hosts Annie and Serge. Annie is German but teaches English and she asked if I could go to the school and talk English to the students. I arrive at the school and enjoy telling my story to the students. Then it’s raining the next day so they kindly let me take a day off and I go and watch Serge play basketball in the evening. After goodbyes the next day I ride 66ml to Rio dulce. I find a hostel called Bruno and they ask for my passport at check in. This is when I panick as I can’t find it anywhere. I ask Annie to ring Flores hostel because I can’t speak Spanish too well and they don’t speak English. Phew they have it and luckily Serge is working in Flores so he picks up my passport and now I only have to get the bus back to Poptun. I have to take another day off and it’s 7pm when I get back to the hostel after having to catch 3 different buses back. After breakfast and packing up I go 62ml just through the border into Honduras. Easiest border crossing yet, thinking I’d been clever spending all my Guatamala money, it all starts to go pear shaped. I soon discover I’ve got a slow puncture and there’s no ATM in the border town. I pump the tyre and arrive at a hotel in the middle of nowhere on the main route, hoping they accept card payment but no. It’s starting to go dark so I ask to camp in the garden and she says yes no problem. Phew more nice kind people.
I liked Guatemala, same as before, you hear stories about it being dangerous but I experienced nothing but kindness off people.

With the students at Annie’s school

Beautiful sundown camping at Yaxla national park

Yaxla pyramid

Beautiful Flores

Great scenery great photo taken by Annie

Annie, warm shower host and English teacher from Poptun

Road to Rio Dulce

Rio Dulce


188mls. Done over 5 days. I was hopping between the families that give support for overnight stay in Belize. It’s a great support network for cyclists, called CentroAme Cicloviajeros, and is for all of central America. Just like the RACmx group in Mexico. 1st night after crossing through the border into Belize, I stayed at Elden’s house who lives in Carolina, just outside the town of Corozal. Most people speak English in Belize and another language, a mixture of Spanish and English called Creole. It’s mainly flat on the route I took but I had wind every day in the hot humid weather. Next day I had a look around Orange walk town before arriving at Rigo’s family house in Carmelita where I camped in the garden. A great kind family who made great homemade pizza and a great breakfast. Next day I called at Crooked tree wildlife sanctuary and looked around. There’s a beautiful lagoon and it’s very laid back, quiet and beautiful. I would have camped there if I hadn’t arranged to arrive at my next host, Rackel, in Biscayne. But I had no internet to contact her so I made my way there and camped in the garden. Again a lovely evening meal and breakfast. My next day was down to Monkey bay national park. I only called in for route info from Matt, a friend of Jerry’s, but he was so kind in offering me dinner and taking me on a late afternoon canoeing trip to spot crocodiles at night. A great adventure and all for free. I camped on a platform in the beautiful garden of the Monkey bay resort. I really great place. The next day I stayed in the border town of Benque Viejo with another kind host called Gonzola and had a bed for the night. A big house on the side of the river and again a really nice host. Belize was a beautiful place with nice kind people.

Benque Viejo

A beautiful fan Palm at the beautiful Monkey bay national park

San Ignacio.

Camping at Monkey bay resort and national park

Beautiful sundown on the lagoon canoeing with Matt and the Monkey bay resort.

Rigo and his family, my kind warm shower hosts.

Leaving Orange walk town

Over the border to beautiful Belize


Ciudad de carman to Bacalar.
510ml. This was done over 9days cycling. 1st day 61ml and wild camped at the beach. 69ml to Campeche next day. I was in pain. I developed a lump on my arse hole. I stayed in couch surfers house and no pain in morning but the lump is still there. I rode out on the malecon and 40ml to Hecelchakan. Arse started feeling sore again so found a cheap hotel early to give it a rest. Next day I rode 56ml to Umán. After going on Google I decide I have an abscess. Next day I rode 41ml. To Tixkokob. On the way I ride around Merida looking for spare cones for my hubs but can’t find anywhere after visiting 6 shops. I call at the doctor’s who says because of my weak immune system I got an abscess. I get cream and antibiotics. I stay at warm shower hosts Jerry and Connie and have 2 days off to rest my arse. I really enjoyed my stay here and got on well with Jerry and Connie. I was sad to leave. Next day I ride 58ml. To Piste and find a cheap hotel for the night. In the morning I call in to chichen itza pyramid site. What a rip off. No where near as good as San Martin but 5 times more expensive because many tourists from the cruise ships visit so massive price hike. Pyramid of the sun 75pesos, here 500pesos and not as impressive. 58ml. Today to Tihosuko. I ask a guy if he knows a hotel and luck would have it, he spoke English and said no hotel in the small town village but I could sleep on the floor at his house. Happy days. So many kind people on my journey. 52ml to Felipe Carrillo today. Very hot as normal and stayed at a hostel in town. Only me in there so I had a peaceful night. Well I arrive at Bacalar after 70ml today. A nice town on the coast and I meet a Frenchman cycling on my way into town. He shows me a really cheap campsite on the sea and so I stay here for the night before going through the border to Belize tomorrow.

Camping at Bacalar before the border of Belize

Chichen itza

Campeche Malacon

Wild camp on the beach

Pelican’s along the coast


632ml. This was done in 11 cycling days. Not much to report on my route apart from after my 1st night at a warm shower host in Nativitas, I visited the historic site of Cacaxla and then onto Cholula, site of the biggest pyramid in the world. I stayed in Puebla at another warm shower host, Rosa and Tomas. I had a day off here. After Puebla I jumped on the highway again at Amozoc and took the highway most of the way as it’s safer. I stayed at Palmar de Bravo, then another warm shower host at Córdoba. Alan was a great host and I had another day off here. Got to Tierra blanca but my rear disc caliper fell apart on route so I managed to do a temporary repair. Next was Tuxtepec, another great warm shower family and then a long day to Sayula on the old road. 88ml today. Then 70ml to la venta in the rain and then another 70ml to Villahermosa. Here’s where I fell sick on my day off and luckily my warm shower hosts, Caleb and Pepi let me stay 4 days until I was well enough to leave. I had a new cassette and chain fit here as well as borrowing a cone spanner to tighten my rear wheel hub cone drive side, which I noticed had come loose. Because my immune system was weak I then developed oral thrush and could not eat solids due to the soreness. I made it to Frontera but couldn’t get the right medicine. I did another day to ciudad del Carmen and found a farmacia that had the medicine I needed. Again I was put up by a warm shower host in the hotel Estrella de mar and Francisco also arranged it so I could have another day off to rest here. I can eat again now and seem to be recovering ok.

Outside Estella hotel in ciudad del Carmen thanks Francisco.

Road to ciudad del Carmen

Parque museo la Venta in Villahermosa

Warm shower host Ivan who rode with me to show me the road out, for 8 miles

Beautiful Córdoba city square. Lot of history here

Cholula, biggest pyramid in the world. There’s even a church built on top


33ml. A steady ride back to Julio’s family house to stay for a week and try and learn some Spanish. I took the quiet roads as I had plenty of time and missed out the highways. A warm welcome back at Julio’s and this gives me an opportunity to try and improve my Spanish and also put in some great photos of the pyramids and MTB mountain Teotihaucan bike club ride.

Julio and his lovely kind family.

Julio guiding us around the trail’s.

With the gang, MTB mountain Teotihaucan bike. Great set of keen cyclists.

Beautiful San Martin Iglesia in town

Road into Teotihaucan

Pyramid of the sun

View of the a avenue of the dead and the pyramid of the sun.

Pyramid of the moon

Pyramid of the feathered serpent



242ml. This was done over 5 days.

Day 1, 59 ml. Salamanca to Queretaro. Very busy on the highway today. No replys through the day from warm shower host’s so I end up booking into jirafa roja hostel. I tried also at the fire station and was refused there too. Nice town with an amazing aquaduct. Turned really cold in the evening.

Day 2- 49ml. To El Cazadero. Really cold start today, gloves, Bob hat, and 3 layers of clothes. Lot of climbing and called into a small town to look for a hotel as it was so cold but there wasn’t one. I was about to camp on the outskirts of town when I met a man who spoke English and he asked the town governor who let me stay in the municipal hall as he said it would be safer and warmer than outside. What a relief. I was freezing.

Day 3 – 68ml to Tequixquiac. Took a back road today to miss the highway and after 8ml it turned into cobbles, dirt and gravel. Wasn’t good and slow going. I arrived at Maravillas and was going to change route but met Laura who assured me the road was now sealed and good. So I set off to Michinaloya then Tula to get to my warm shower host at Tequixquiac. Daniel was a great guy who had walked for 5years all the way to south America. He introduced me to his friend Marlon who put me up for the night as Daniel’s home was crowded and noisy. Marlon was a great guy and spoke English and it was a peaceful night.

Day 4 – 33ml to San Martin. Steady day after having coffee in town with Daniel before I left. I made my way to San Martin de las pyramids and my warm shower host Julio. When I arrived, Jeff from Oz was still here so that was good for conversation and Julio was a fantastic host. After a nice evening meal and goodbye to Jeff in the morning, Julio drops me off at the pyramids so I can look around. The pyramid of the sun is the 3rd biggest pyramid in the world. A fantastic site with fascinating history. I stay another day and go out with Julio and mountain Teotihaucan bike club for a ride all day. A great change to be off road most of the day on a MTB. Thanks Julio.

Day 5 – 33ml to Mexico city. Easier than I thought riding into the historic center right in the heart of the city. I arrived at my airb&b for a 6days off treat for myself as it’s Christmas. A great stay over and a fascinating and beautiful city.

Mexico catedral

Mexico city

Pyramid of the sun

On the way to San Martin

Road to San Martin

Road to Tequixquiac

The fantastic aquaduct at Queretaro






69ml. After leaving the hotel I decided to take the 90D and 45D toll roads to the warm shower host, Javier, in Salamanca. Pretty flat most of the way and the highlight of the day was going around a Tequila distillery on the side of the highway just after Penjamo. I got to Javier’s house around 4.30pm and he was a great host. I met his family and we had a peanut butter sandwich and a cup of tea as we talked about travelling. A great guy with a big heart.

Javier, great warm shower host.

Inside the beautiful buildings of the distillery

The beautiful grounds of the distillery

Highway statue just after leaving the distillery



48ml. After goodbyes at Jamay, I make for La Piedad on the 35, and then the 110. The road has a good shoulder on it and the weather is scorching again. It’s mainly flat with the last 15ml getting a bit lumpy. Approaching the town I stop at a motel and it’s only 150pesos but there’s a factory opposite running noisy machinery 24hrs so I decide to carry on. I get a good deal at the cerro grande hotel and it’s not far to Walmart so happy days. Cable TV, first in a long time and decent supermarket for some peanut butter and porridge.

La Barca history museum

La Barca church



63ml. Took a while to clear the city limits and took local roads down to Atequiza, then joined the 35 highway. When I reached Ocotlan, there was a bike path all the way to Jamay. I arrived at a warm shower host and Contrado and his family really looked after me. We went to see the beautiful town square and the malecon and me and Conrado had a couple of beers on the way back. I had a great nights sleep and Conrado made a delicious breakfast. Omar took me back to the malecon in the morning to take some daytime snaps before we said our Adiós. Muchos gracias for your kindness to Estafania and her family. Great warm shower hosts.

Conrado and his son Omar.

Jamay sits on the bank of the huge Lago de Chapala

View from the malecon

Jamay malecon

Beautiful Jamay town square

Riding into Jamay


318ml. This was done over 6 days.

Day 1- 57ml to Escuinapa. After a day off in Mazatlan and sharing the cost of a room with Jeff, a cyclist from the states who speaks fluent Spanish and a great guy, I go down route 15 via El Rosario. It’s a very hot day but mainly flat. I ask the group RACmx if there’s anywhere to safe to stay and they suggest the fire station so I head there and camp in the yard next to where the firemen are. They work 24hr shifts in turn here and are on low pay but are a great group and very kind.

At the fire station

Saying goodbye to Jeff at Mazatlan

Beautiful church at El Rosario





















Day 2 – 80ml. Another flat day on the road, very hot but I take the 15D toll road as it’s a lot safer with the big shoulder to ride on. I catch up with Helene and Aymeric the French couple and Aussie Jeff at Ruiz and stay at the same hotel in the center of town. 

Day 3 – 43ml. I set off with the gang and it soon starts to get hilly. We take the old road shortly after the rest station on the 15D. It’s a very quiet road and scenic too. Jeff comes past in a pick up truck with his bike on the back so I meet him at a hotel in Tepic where we all stay for the night.

Day 4 – 45ml. Staying on the 15D and another hilly day I make it to a small old town called Jala. A beautiful town square and I meet the mayor who lets me sleep inside the theatre. Very nice and kind people in the town and great street food around the square in the evening.

Day 5 – 42ml to Magdalena. Another hilly day but I’m at a warm shower hosts tonight. He isn’t home until 6pm so I take my time today visit the town square in Magdalena and the French couple Helene and Aymeric are there. They are also staying at the warm shower house. We meet Juan and he makes us a delicious evening meal and a great breakfast in the morning.

Day 6 – 51ml to Guadalajara. Well I visit Tequila with the French couple. A nice town with tequila distilleries dotted around and lots of the beautiful blue Algave plants fill the fields all around this area. The main ingredient for making tequila. On my way to Guadalajara I get a puncture and the French couple turn up just as I start to change the tube and they give me a hand as I now fit a new tyre because the old one has started to break up leaving the metal strands that reinforce the tyre, coming out of the rubber which was the reason for the puncture. We say goodbye and arrange to meet up for a drink in Guaralajara as we’re both having a few days off here. I arrive at my warm shower host and receive a warm welcome from Nicole who is the sister of Alexis, the host who is away in Germany. Nicole is very nice and tells me I can stay as long as I want and gives me a spare set of keys to come and go as I please. I end up staying a week and even Jeff turns up here and stays for 2days. Fantastic city here and loved it here.

A beautiful gorge on the outskirts of Guadalahaja

Even managed 2 nights watching wrestling

On the precinct in town

Such a beautiful city. Guadalajara has so many sites to see.

Guadalajara catedral

One of many fields of blue Algave

Tequila distillery in town

Helene and Aymeric

Beautiful town square in Magdalena

Jala theatre where I stay the night.

Riding into Jala








15ml. After a long stay at Tuly’s warm shower host in la Paz I’m on the ferry today and there’s also 5 other cyclists who stayed at Tuly’s on the same boat. A Swedish cyclist, Noel, couldn’t get a ticket at the office in town for the 28th as they said it was full but he tried his luck at the counter in the port and got a place on the same ferry. It’s an 18hr crossing and you are allocated a seat in front of a TV screen which plays a stream of movies. You also get 2 meals which were good. In the night you have to sleep in the reclining chair or if you’re lucky enough, you can lay on the floor if you find a free space. 6pm departure and arrived in Mazatlan about 11.30am.i decided to stay a couple of nights there and look around the town which had a beautiful old town area with lots of great cheap food.

Nice sundown view from the Mazatlan Malacon.

Beautiful church next to the old town square

Approaching mainland Mexico

Ferry port at Pichilingue




292ml. This was done over 7days and wild camping every night till la Paz. Long stretches between towns of which the longest was 40ml which doesn’t seem long but in the heat of the day, you soon run out of water. But it’s steady away and the camping is nice and quiet if you get far enough away from the highway. Only thing is that there’s lots of cactus spikes all over the floor off road so you have to choose your spot to camp carefully so your air mattress doesn’t develop a leak and be sure to check the tyres for spikes before riding in the morning. We met Joel at Ciudad Constitucion, a warm shower host and we camped at the RV park where we met him and he took us to recharge our data package at Telsel and treated us to good coffee and taco’s for breakfast before leaving. Muchos gracias Joel, a true gentleman. We also camped at San Augustin restaurant, the night before reaching la paz. A small restaurant in the middle of nowhere with a great big garden. A nice family run this place and let us camp in the garden. So more of the same along the road to la Paz with a few big hills thrown in. We arrive at Tuly’s house, a fantastic warm shower host who has hosted 500 cyclists. This kind and warm hearted lady really is a legend. It’s because of people like Tuly, that I keep going. So kind and inspirational for me and a pleasure to meet. Thanks so much Tuly.

Giogio, Tuly, and non Chen, great people in la Paz.

Joel, a great and kind person from Constitucion. Thanks Joel

Tuly, a living legend.

View from the Malacon

The pretty Malecon la Paz

The beautiful la Paz Malecon

Great sunrise

Be careful going to the toilet at night.

1 of many tarantula spiders I saw on the way to la Paz

A beautiful view of a golf course at the top of a long climb

A rare green landscape area on route. Mulege

Lots of vultures through the desert.



98ml. Contacted James who we met at a rest station on route and headed to playa del Burro. It took longer than expected due to a long 40km false flat and more bad wind along the way. Called in at Rosalia, which was a lovely town. Had a puncture, my 1st in 7,000ml so I can’t complain. Me and Nikki had delicious taco de carne in town and chatted to some Canadians, 1 of which was a lad originally from Nottingham, they were on a road trip filming all the way. Found a nice camp spot as we got our 1st glimpse of the Sea of Cortez. The next day we reached James house at El Burro and had another day off as it was so nice there and James made a great tasting cup of coffee.

Beautiful camping at El Burro at James place

Great taco de carne at Santa Rosalia

The road to the Sea of Cortez


167ml. Another 4days. 1st night we camped next to a police station in a really small place but it was really noisy from the trucks on the highway and dogs barking, cows mooing and cocks crowing lol, oh and even horses neying. Next day we got to Sara, a warm shower host in Guerrero Negro and camped in the garden. It was a little cooler on this day so we cycled out to a lighthouse on the coast on a diet road but it was worth it to chill in the beautiful quiet location and eat some dinner. Another wild camp the following day after the big town of Alvarado Aramburo and stocking up on food/water. Then we got really bad northern cross wind again and the last 10ml to San Ignacio and the nice casa del cyclista, was quite hard going and we was glad to arrive. It was such a much chilled out spot that we took another day off and did some laundry here.

The great Casa del cyclista, San Ignacio

More dusty roadworks

Quiet off road desert wildcamp.

Road to La Paz

Lighthouse at Guerrero negro



208ml. More of the same following highway 1. Mainly wild camping in the desert off the main highway. We was looking for a sheltered spot on a diet road to shelter from the wind and David stopped with his wife and offered us a cold beer, which went down without touching the sides in the desert heat. The conversation then led to him offering accomodation at his remote house on the coast 15miles away. We gratefully accepted and also had a day off. He was a great character, very funny and also very kind, making me and Nikki meals and sharing wine over the table sharing great stories. I was sad to leave the beautiful place he had but he drove us all the way back to the main highway and said a heartfelt goodbye to them both.

Good lad David taking me and Nikki back to the highway

David and Margie

View from the beautiful deserted bay at David’s

Dirt road to David’s isolated house

Long stretches now between habited towns and villages.

Wild camping every night in the desert now due to long stretches with no camping



147ml. Done over 4 days. Just taking it easy and enjoying Mexico. Stopped at a mixture of camping places, rest area, church and mission hall. Following the route 1, which is great when there’s a shoulder but not so when the shoulder disappears. But most of the drivers are very good and patient. Been loving the taco’s and food is sometimes really spicy. Alongside the road there’s always the typical Mexican music being played and it feels great to be here. Weather is fantastic, a little hot later in the day but cool when the sun disappears. Camped at a rest station/small roadside stop on the first night and camped in a lovely family’s garden. Then we asked at a church if we could stay in San Vicente and the pastor was so nice and let us stay in a little building. Then a great little camp next to the road called Manantial camp. A little noisy because of the road but a beautiful garden. Last but not least we stayed at Hi mission. Mr Cho has devoted his life to helping Mexican Indians and he kindly let us stay two nights at the mission hall and cooked beautiful meals in the evening.

Mr Cho and his friend with Nikki outside Hi-mission

Dusty stretch of roadworks

Manantial camp

Riding through San Quentin

Palanos rest station

San Vicente church

Nikki my riding companion



35ml. We rode down the 1d freeway for 25ml then came off onto the old road route 1. This was quieter but had no shoulder to ride on. We had an easy day and camped at a very quiet camp off the road but it was great to feel back in nature.

Ix Chel recommend Tito’s taco’s for breakfast. Mmmmm delicious

El Salto camp site.


38ml. Nikki, who a met at Steven’s, is riding to Argentina like me so we decide to ride together if our pace is similar. Steven takes us 20ml to the border on quiet back roads and bike paths which is fantastic. We say our goodbye’s and thank him for being such a generous host, then through the border we go into Mexico. We have to pay $29 for a tourist ticket valid for 6 month’s as we will be heading into the mainland Mexico after the Baja peninsula. No hassles and straight through the border after filling in a form then we head to Rosarito down the route 1 which is rather busy on stretches so we are glad to arrive. We buy a Mexican SIM card each and head to a warm shower host who Nikki contacted earlier and camp in the garden. In the evening we go out for our 1st Mexican food, taco’s and they are delicious and washed down with a beer and nice sweet pastry for desert. Hola Mexico.

On route south.

Camping in Ix chel’s garden, a lovely kind host who gave us lots of info.


157ml. Did this over 4 days just getting the feel of being here and found it expensive and hard to wild camp. After the hostel I slept on the floor in a park and had to exit sharpish at 4am due to the sprinklers coming on. Anywhere there’s grass here and the sprinklers come on at night. 2nd night and I slept on the floor again at the side of a factory but even though I was partially hidden, a guy woke me at 1am who didn’t speak any English, wanting a cigarette. Hmmm I didn’t sleep after that thinking he may be back and this time for money. Luckily I got a reply off a warm shower host in Carlsbad, great stuff, then another reply, so I stay for 2 nights in Carlsbad as I have to wait for my tyres ,on order at revolution cycles, to arrive on Monday. So it was with Greg on the 1st night and Jodi the second night who kindly rode 14ml with me to the bike shop the following day to get my tyres, after she had won a gold medal the previous day in a tandem race. Awesome lady. After securing the tyres on my loaded bike I get to San Diego and arrive at another warm shower host, Steven, who accepted my late request. I arrive and meet Nikki who I had met briefly on the road a couple of days previous. We have a few beers and a good chin wag and it already begins to feel exciting for the onward travel.

Steven, great warm shower host in San Diego

Famous Venice beach, California



64ml. After a day off here due to the rain I take the highway and blast down it 20ml till I get off into the 4rivers bike path. A pleasant ride for the last 40ml but it’s Saturday and lots of cyclists on here. Lot of road bikers on carbon frames racing so you have to be careful lol. Coming into Seoul the landscape changes to one of high tower buildings. I come off the path and head into town to bike Nara, a big bike shop well known with foreigners. I buy some replacement brake pads and order a bike box for my onward flight. Then it’s to go and meet Jonhgo at Soho travel who found me a cheap flight to LA. After meeting and thanking him and getting my e-ticket, ESTA printed off I go and check into my airb&b room. I’m here for 5 nights before my flight leaves so a little time to explore Seoul.

Coming into Seoul

Tunnel on the 4rivers path















Well that’s it now for Korea and I’m now on my way to USA. My stats so far are: total mileage after leaving my house on 28/4/18 is 15,906miles or 25,592km. To Baku Azerbaijan: 6,728miles

New Zealand 3,092miles.

Japan: 4,957miles.

Korea: 1,129miles




61ml. After packing away my stuff I’m on the quiet scenic old road but at times have to rejoin the highway for stretches. The rain starts as expected due to the 18th typhoon to hit this season. The worst since the 50’s. I decided to get the waterproofs on and blast the 20ml to a jimjilbang which I find on mapsme. The highway is busy but there’s a good shoulder to ride in. You just have to be really careful at the exit and entry sliproads. After reaching the small hamlet I find the jimjibang doesn’t exist. I’m drenched and using Google translate with a local I find I have to go back to next town if I want a room and shelter for the next 2 days while the typhoon passes. I go to the first building that looks like a motel and get a room for £20 which is cheap for here. Happy days, shower and shelter.

Nice views from the highway

Nice quiet old road


53ml. I ride till 10km before DMZ, then at the rest station you have to hit h a lift as the police checkpoint won’t let bikes through. I got a lift with a nice couple and we went to the unification observatory and then the DMZ museum. After they dropped me back for the bike I took R 46 about 20ml north of Sokcho, to head to Seoul. I had a long 520m climb on the way and it was cold and going dark at the top so I went down to find a camp spot. It was pitch black when I found a small quiet shelter just out of Baekdam on the old road.

In the DMZ museum

Unification observatory


39ml. After the great breakfast at hotel November I say goodbye to Wei and make tracks. After 20ml I meet Manuel coming the other way and as we are talking, Wei turns up and they know each other so we stop for coffee at 7/11 and after nagging for ages I set off to get through Sokcho to give me a chance of reaching the DMZ tomorrow. I manage to find a camp spot just as night falls but it was a little near the highway so I don’t expect much sleep from the noisy road.


58ml. Another hard day, the climbs say 7% but I wouldn’t be in the granny ring out of breath if they were lol. Well the weather is good and I’m at a warm shower host tonight. Hotel November. I arrive and it’s a fantastic place. Mr Kang the owner was away travelling but his staff treated me like a king. It was so nice to have a beautiful bed and luxury for a change. The breakfast was fantastic too. I met another cyclist from Malaysia there called Wei, a young lad who’s done lots of travelling. A laid back character if ever I met one.

Beautiful east coast

Korean war memorial


59ml. More of the same today with the steep climbs and I met an Italian couple on a tandem who have been travelling for 5 years. Nice couple and I was going to camp with them but when we arrived at a camping spot, the toilet was locked and no water so I decided to carry on for a while. It was quite hilly and was dark when I found somewhere to camp.

The Italian travellers

One of many boardwalks

Cycle path is very scenic at times

A flat stretch yippee


76ml. Hard day with quite a lot of steep, short climbs what just seems to sap my energy. Got to Pohang and then I was on the bike path up the coast. Lots of nice towns up this coast with lots of crab fishing and restaurants. Lots of Statue’s too. I called it a day when I found a nice raised shelter with a toilet with power next to it. Happy days.

Great camp shelter tonight

Take your pick for dinner

Lots of crab restaurant



72ml. Took R 909 to Seo-myeon then down over to Gyeongju. The first thing you see on approach are big buriel mounds. They are all over the gaff. Lots to see here with lovely park areas, dong-gung palace etc. Then I took R 4 towards Deok-dong and a quiet road through Gyeongju national park. Then it’s down all the way to the east coast at Gampo. Now it’s just a case of taking in the scenery and making my way to the top of the peninsula at Homigot. I camped in a shelter right on the coast. A great day.

The most eastern part of the Korean peninsula. Homigot.

The beautiful east coast

Gyeonju national park

Beautiful gardens in town

Burial mounds of sila



72ml. Rain has finally stopped so an early morning start today, trying to make it to a warm shower host, Danny. The roads are quiet and I take the R24, 793 and 730 to Namwon. I have a break here and sons Gimbap to eat as I’ve my 1st decent climb soon. The road is scenic and quiet and as I get to Hamyang, I mail Danny to confirm I’ll make it tonight. I have a tuna sandwich outside a garage and the owner invites me to a table and makes me a coffee. After this it’s a great climb up the 1084 to geochang and call in a shop for some food. Danny is at work till 6 so I wait and chill in a small park for him to arrive. A great guy and he also runs over hills and mountains for fun. He’s doing an ultra marathon in a few weeks, 110km over hilly terrain and his flat has lots of race numbers hung on the walls as well as trophies for winning and top 3 placing at these long distance races. An amazing young man.

Long distance race numbers

Geochang in the distance.

On route to Namwon


82ml. After a restless night in the park due to the noise from the port, I got on the cycle path of the Yeongsangang river. All the way up to Damyang-eup. I’d followed this path down most of the way with Paul, so I wasn’t stopping for photos along the way as usual. I rode the last 10ml with a cyclist tucked in behind doing a bit of drafting lol. He spoke a little English and showed me a shelter with a toilet nearby. It forecast rain in the early hours so I’m glad to camp under the shelter. In the morning the rain comes and it’s a typhoon on its way so I decide to stay. I visit the bamboo museum and go to an internet café to download my Garmin activities. I’m just going to set off as the rain is light when it changes to heavy downpour and now I’m stopping. I’m in contact with Darna and Janneka by WhatsApp and they suggest to stay till the typhoon passes on Sunday. They send me a link for a 24hr sauna/ jimjilbang nearby so I check in here for 2 days due to the bad weather. Hopefully it’s going to be fine on Monday. Probably won’t get much sleep due to snoring but I’ll be dry ha.

Bamboo museum at Damyang-eup

Path up to Damyang-eup


168ml. This was done over 6 days cycling anti-clockwise around the island with a couple of side trips to Udo island and the lava tubes. There is a cycle route all around the circumference of the island. After an early rise of 5am, we head to the port for the 9am 5hr ride on the ferry via trips to 5 different banks before I find one with an international ATM.

Day 1 was 22ml to Darak shelter which we thought was a camp spot but realized it was just a stamping booth on arrival there. You can do different routes collecting stamps along the way in a cycle passport and you receive a certificate and medal at the end. This is on the 4 rivers cycle routes. Well the island is beautiful, very busy along the shoreline with nice cafés and restaurants. We decide to camp at a sportsground just off the road and nice and quiet.

Day 2 was 44ml to Daepo-dong. Much of the same today along the coast and steady away. We camp in the grounds of the African museum. Not the best place but was difficult to find somewhere as it’s very touristy around the coast in this location.

Day 3. 38ml to Sinsan-ri. After another early start, Paul is a real early starter, we come to a beautiful Yakchunsa temple. We stop off here to view it and Paul does some gear maintenance on his bike. Changing and fitting a new cable and resetting the gears. The weather is great again so a relaxed pace and we arrive at a small port to camp but a fisherman tells us the sea splashes over the wall, so we follow him and he shows us a sheltered spot right at a fresh water pool that runs into the sea.

Day 4. 22ml to Udo-Myeon. Paul left early this morning to camp and then hike up Mt Hallasan, the highest mountain in south Korea. I ever hear him go and after a few hours cycling I come to another small port, Jongdai with a small ferry in dock and find out it’s going to Udo island so I buy a ticket and take a side trip there. It’s a beautiful island and the speciality there is peanut ice cream. It’s only a small island so I decide to camp after going all the way around and the shelter I want to camp under is exposed and it’s quite windy so I head to one lower down which is more sheltered.

Day 5. 29ml to Hamdeok beach campsite. Got the 7.30am ferry back to a different port this time. Arrived at Seongsan port and went to look at Seongsan llchulbong ( sunrise peak ) A tuffed cone formed 5 thousand years ago by hydrovolcanic eruptions. It’s 180m to the top and I could see the famous women divers from the top in a bay not far away so after here I decide to go and watch the divers, some who are in their 80’s diving to 10m down for fish and seaweed without oxygen tanks. After watching them I take a little side trip to the lava tubes which are tunnels 18m high and 23m wide in places, formed by flowing lava. It also boasts the biggest lava column in the world at 7.6m high. After here I camp at a small campsite at Hamdeok beach. It was quiet here due to the strong wind.

Day 6. 13ml to Jeju. Short ride back to the port to find the early afternoon ferry back to Mokpo is cancelled and I have to get the later one which arrives in Mokpo at 9.30pm. not good news as it will be dark looking for a camp spot and I don’t fancy the jimjilbang again with all the snoring there ha. Paul is in port after his hike up Mt Hallasan and he is catching the ferry back to Busan. After goodbye’s to Paul and a French couple cycling on their honeymoon, I get my ferry and sleep on the floor in a park not far from the port in Mokpo.

Beautiful sundown from my tent n Udo


Camping at the African museum

Yakchunsa temple

My choppy crossing to Udo island

Top of Seongsan llchulbong

Haenyeo, women divers

Lava column in the tubes

In the park near Mokpo port



244ml. This was done over 6 days.

Day 1, 28ml to Pungho-dong. Set off with Paul from Scarborough who I met briefly in Japan and was in Busan at the same time. I stayed in Busan at the grand motel for 4nights and Janneka and Darna was also there for 3nights, so it was great to have company while I was there. Did some shopping, bike maintenance and was treated to meals out by the very kind and grateful ladies for doing some maintenance on their bikes. We said goodbye and later me and Paul set off in the rain.The day wasn’t enjoyable as we were riding on a busy highway to get out of town and ended up coming to a road we wasn’t allowed on so had to go over the wall and down an embankment to carry on and save going back a long way. We found a park just off the road at Pungho-dong to camp for the night. 

Day 2. 46ml to Munsan-eup. Tried to find quiet roads off the highway but seemed to have to go back on the busy highway for stretches. We stopped to look at the phone for navigation when a driver came over to us and offered to show us a cycle path to the next town and buy us a meal. A nice chap who spoke a little English and great timing as we entered the restaurant, the heavens opened for a massive downpour which we missed. We arrived at Munsan at the end of the cycle path and found a little camp spot next to a sports ground.

Day 3. 36ml to Gosa-ri. We reached the Seomjin river bike path today. This was great riding with no cars. Very scenic and found a nice camp spot on a small park with a toilet with power for charging our devices. Happy days.

Nice shelter to camp under.

Nice view

Great scenery today





Day 4. 43ml to Saseok-ri. Great day on the river path all day and pulled off for some shopping food supplies at Gwangju. Great cakes at Paris baguette next to the mart that me and Paul got food supplies. Paul eats really healthy and puts me to shame ha.

A snake crossing our path.





Scenic bike path




Day 5. 52ml to Seungchon. Much of the same today, great river path following the blue line, nice scenery and a nice shelter to camp under. It’s also cooled down today and dull sky’s which was great. A change from hot and humid.






Day 6. 39ml to Mokpo. After a good night’s sleep due to the cool night, me and Paul set off for the port of Mokpo. A steady day and spend the night in a Jimjilbang, a kind of 24hr bath house/sauna where you can relax and sleep over in communal areas. It’s ok but for the snoring ha.

Paul from Scarborough. Been travelling for 16month

Oops wrong road


China town in Busan





Darna and Janneka having a great meal.



238ml. Done over 7 days. Took my time here as the I couldn’t get a cheap ferry crossing until the 4/9/19.

Day 1. To Iwakuni, 27ml. After a good night’s sleep in the hotel it’s pissing down again. All day so I decide to stay at the beautiful park behind the 5 arch kintaikyo bridge at Iwakuni on the Nishiki river. I sleep under a shelter in the park as it’s warm and not worth getting the tent wet and trying to dry out in the morning.

Beautiful kintaikyo bridge

Beautiful park behind the bridge.





28.8.19. Due to the relentless rain I take a day off here and the river gets high and catches a few locals out.





29.8.19. to Tsuwano, 59ml. Arrive at Tsuwano just before going dark and rain starts to fall and it’s in for the night according to the forecast. So I find a shelter to sleep under and explore the beautiful town with old samurai mansions lining the streets.

Tonomachi street Tsuwano

Beautiful Tsuwano street.


Koi carp fill the irrigation canals and was a source of food in case of seige a long time ago.





30.8.19. To Mito rest area. 50ml. Another day on beautiful quiet roads following the river. R13 into the R11 to Hagi then the R191, onto the R490 and then the R32 to Mito rest station. Great weather and scenery all the way. I buy some suchi at the supermarket on the rest station and set the tent up. Then the station manager comes over and I ask if it’s ok to camp and he takes me to his house to shower and offers me food which I have to decline as I’m full from the suchi. Really nice couple and so kind. His wife made me some Onigiri, ( rice balls ) for my journey tomorrow. Lawson’s convenience store opposite the rest station so I get milk and cornflakes for my breakfast before going to sleep.

The lovely couple, rest station manager and his wife, who are so kind to me.

The beautiful river at Mito rest station

Koi carp swimming freely in the river below my tent.

Tent pitch at Mito rest station






31.8.19 To Yoshida kasen park, 23ml. A very short day today, just chilling and taking my time now to Fukuok.

Beautiful shrine at Hagi


1.9.19. To Wakamatsu, 29ml. Another short day. Mainly due to the rain again lol. I camp next to a big river and it’s raining again in the morning ha. Like being back home in blighty. I try to dry the tent under a bridge and the fire brigade turned up to do some kind of exercise. Just my luck so they wait patiently while I pack up and make my way to the Kanmon pedestrian walkway under the sea 60m and joins Honshu with Kyushu. ¥20 for the bike (15p) great experience, take the elevator down to the tunnel under the sea and halfway across is the only prefectural border under water in Japan. Then when I get to Wakamatsu you have to take a small ferry across the river, ¥150 with the bike, as bikes aren’t allowed over the bridge here. I then find a park at the side of the R495 on the way out of town.

Leaving moji after the Kanmon tunnel

Kanmon straits

The border under the sea of the Kanmon straits




Day 6. To Tsuyazaki, 30ml. After a restless night, forecast said no rain and at 1am I had to abandon the tent with all my stuff due to the ground flooding, I manage to get the tent mostly dry under a shelter. Bad night with the heavy rain storm but hey, that’s just weather. A little frustrating that the forecast says no rain but today we keep going. The rain stops after dinner and it gets hot with nice sunshine yippee. I follow a deserted bicycle path from Ashiya down the coast to a new rest station where the path ends.

R300 the deserted coastal cycle path.




I take off the bags here and try to straighten the rear derailleur hanger, as I know it’s out of line, and then spend half an hour setting up the gears again which aren’t changing that sweet as before. 


Sundown over the Japan sea at Tsuyazaki




3.9.19. To Fukuoka, 20ml. Up early and dry out all my gear completely in the hot sun. I only have 20ml to go so try looking for bike shops on route to purchase new jockey wheels as the center bush on the bottom pulley wheel is really worn and wobbly. I arrive at cycle base Asahi, a big chain store and ask the young lad inside if he has pulley wheels for my deraileur. He has a look and finds 2 what fit and also has the alignment tool for the deraileur so I get that straightened properly and new jockey wheels and wash the bike while I’m there. I book a hotel, my first in 4 months, as the clouds are turning black and I don’t fancy wet gear again on my last night in Japan. I’m glad I did as at 9pm it started raining ha. Well tomorrow it’s goodbye Japan as I’m getting the ferry to south Korea in the morning. What a fabulous country with a kind and friendly people and fantastic culture. I will be sad to leave.

My young bike mechanic friend at cycle base Asahi who helped me out with new jockey wheels on the way to fukuoka.

Goodbye beautiful Japan, on the ferry to Busan




158ml. Done over 4days.

Day 1 32ml to Wakayama. Raining hard this morning and got an hrs break from the rain and managed to dry the tent. Only got 3ml and had to shelter under a bridge. Then again had to shelter in a Lawson’s after a few more miles. I followed the R1 cycle route along the river and decided to go to an onsen in Wakayama then look for camp spot as it would have been dark getting off the ferry. Ended up sleeping on the floor under a garage canopy, rained all night

Following the R1 river cycle path to Wakayama





Day 2 42ml to Higashimayoshi. After a restless night sleeping on the floor I’m up at 4.30am for the ferry to Tokushima. Chose some quiet roads as best I could and got to a free campsite but it was full of mosquitos so I went back about 6ml to a nice place I passed earlier on the river.






Day 3 42ml to Niihama. Nice weather today so I decide to do some bike maintenance. I change front and rear tyres round, as the back is worn down now after 5,000ml, replace the front and rear brake pads and adjust. Clean all the grime and shit from all the cogs, including jockey wheels, and fit a new chain. When I finish all this I set off about 10.30am along R192. Not many alternatives today so a lot of pavement riding. I find a camp spot on a small park next to a hard court football court.

Day 4 42ml to Hiroshima. I’m up at 5.30am but at 6am lots of children turn up for football practice, this happens all the time. Hard to get your head round when you think of back home ha. Bad  day on R11 Today. No alternative but to take this highway. Was busy, heavy with traffic and hated it. I contacted Alan, who I met a few months ago who has lived here 20yrs and I arrange to meet for a beer. I just make the 15.20 ferry from Matsuyama and arrive at Hiroshima port at 18.00. I’m just setting the tent up and Alan talks me into taking a hotel room and pays ¥3000 towards it. Over half the cost. Buys me some beers and I do all my much needed laundry at a coin laundry room then go to a park near the port and have a good chin wag over the beers. Was really great to talk and speak English to someone lol. I haven’t done that in a while. Cheers Andy.

R11 on route to Matsuyama port








71ml. Fantastic day on the bike. Followed a very scenic river on routes, R368 R166 then onto R16 to Yoshino. From here it was R39 to Gojo. Quite a big climb after approx 30ml but the roads were all quiet and beautiful views all the way. After Yoshino it got a little busy and then after Gojo I picked up the cycle path and camped on the river with a toilet and water next to a sportsground as always.

My scenic quiet roads today

On route today

Scenic quiet roads today



224ml. This was done over 4 days.

Lake Shoji




Day 1 58ml to Fujinomiya. Great day to start with. Kept to the highway R20 to Kofu. Was quiet and down in elevation all the way. By 12.30 I’d done 40ml. Then onto R113 and R358 to lake Shoji and lake Motosu. The climb was approx 11ml and the rain came. On the downhill just past a Michi no Eki the rain came really heavy so I sheltered in a bus stop and helped a Japanese cyclist change his rear inner tube. By the time this was done it was dark so I slept in the bus shelter for the night.

Day 2 53ml to Okabe.

Fuji prefecture manhole cover

Shiraito no taki waterfall on the way.

Mt Fuji




After a restless night in the shelter with the spiders I set off hoping for a break in the cloud to try and get a picture of Mt Fuji. I visit some waterfalls on the way and luckily a photo, not the best because of the cloudy conditions but it’s forecast cloudy for the week so can’t be too disappointed. The rest of today is what I call urban hell. A mixture of pavement and me trying to find quiet river paths and quiet parallel roads. After a good cycle path to the outskirts of Shizuoka, I manage to find a very small park to camp in a small town before Fujieda. Bad sleep though with the humid conditions.

Day 3 53ml. To Kosai.

Nice shrine on route.



More of the same urban hell today, so not much to report here. Found a small camp spot near a Yamaha factory in a small park.

Day 4 60ml to Taki. Not a bad day to Tahara then onto the short ferry crossing to Toba. I pushed on a quiet road onto R37 and couldn’t find a camp spot so I slept in a doorway near a Lawson’s near Taki. Just before the turning onto R368.



47ml. Woken by the heat from the early morning sun. 1,100m to the top of the pass then all down to Matsumoto. I’m already at 500m so away I go. It’s hot and quite busy with traffic but beautiful scenery. I drop down to Matsumoto and look around the castle grounds. 40min wait to go inside so I just walk around taking pictures.

Matsumoto castle

Visited a nice shrine on the way






After leaving Matsumoto I change route and decide to head to Fuji, it seems such a shame to be so close and not at least try to photo the iconic mountain. Another big climb 1,050m over to Lake Suwa. Some steep bits and raining again on the way but got to Chino and found a school sportsground to camp. Was dark when I got there and not ideal but it will do for the night.


136ml. Done over 3 days,

Start of R121 and beautiful redwoods.









Day1 51ml to Gyoda. Take the R121 which is quiet and lined with beautiful redwoods. Gets busy after about 5ml out of Nikko but there’s a good pavement to ride on. All day it’s shelter from rain and riding on pavement, I eventually get to a river path at Meiwa and find a nice camp spot for the night. Was surprised to do so many miles with all the stops and starts.

Day 2- 50ml to Yokokawa.

20ml to start on a quiet river path through peach orchards. I had a few, I must admit they were delicious. Got to Honjo just before a massive thunderstorm and sheltered at a Lawson’s. A mixture of river paths and road from here to Annaka before I start climbing up to Usui pass. I’m stopped on the way up with the police who give me reflective stickers for my shoes and warn me to try and find shelter as a typhoon is forecast to hit the area tonight. I get to a rail station and museum at Usui and 3 ladies shout me over as they speak English and help me by getting permission for me to camp and shelter under a restaurant canopy for the night.

My sheltered camp spot before I pack up early in the morning at Yokokawa





Day 3- 35ml. To Maruko.

After a restless night under the canopy being bitten with mosquitos, I set off early but it’s raining again. 9.5ml climb and again it turns to sunshine once over the pass. Very hot day and the Garmin reads 42°. I can’t make Matsumoto as intended because I have another big climb to come so I find a nice camp spot on a river again next to a sportsground.




52ml. Not a bad day cycling, had to take R4 for a while but the pavement was good and also found some quiet stretches alongside the highway. Just as I pulled into Nikko the rain started so I managed to find a pitch under the river bridge for shelter. At midnight the rain came hard and started to flood under the bridge, so I had to move the tent. Managed to dry the tent in the morning before setting off during a break in the rain.

Heavy rain


36ml. Was going to have a day off at the Lake but by 8am I already had 3 family tents around me. More people turning up and I found out that it was a national holiday. It was like cowboys and Indians lol. So the alarm bells rang in my head, partying, noise and no sleep which I was in desperate need of so I packed up at 10am and set off. On the old road and a fair bit of climbing to start with and very hot. I followed the lake for a while and they seemed to be hundreds going to the lake. I dropped down to Shirakawa and found a camp spot on the river. Made some pasta for tea and then try to sleep in the very humid conditions.

Quiet cycle path on the way

View from Inawashiro campsite


54ml. Woken at 5am with locals starting a baseball game ha. But that was good as it gave me an early start. 5ml on the river path to start with and then a 1,300m climb on the old road over the pass. 3.5hrs in the pouring rain to the pass but on a very quiet road away from the national highway. When I started the decent, the rain stopped and I managed to make it to a free campsite on the Lake Inawashiro just before dark. It was also windy here which was great for a cool night in the tent without the USB fan lol.

Lake Inawashiro

Top of the pass


38ml. Cloudy with light drizzle to start the day. I followed a river path and was able to keep to rivers most of the day in my direction, alongside peach orchards. I had to help myself to a few of the juicy, big peaches. They were delicious. I got to a 7/11 and camped on a sports ground nearby.

Quiet river roads

Along rivers most of the day



64ml. Quiet roads today until Matsushima then had to follow the R45 again. At Shiogama I took R10 to bypass Sendai and made it to a baseball ground on the river with toilet and water.



52ml. Back on Honshu now and the humidity is extreme. Glad I got my USB fan for the tent at night ha. Today I go inland slightly to keep me away from the busy R45. At Kesennuma I take R65 then the R456/346. Lot quieter but a thunderstorm appears and I have to shelter in a new Michi no Eki. I find a quiet spot to camp on a river again once the rain has stopped at a small place called Maiya.

Colourful building on the road inland

Goats trying to keep cool in the extreme heat

Damaged building left standing

R45 so busy with construction traffic


56ml. Off the ferry onto R45. This was ok at first but got busy. Came off when I could on small roads but always had to rejoin the 45. Lots of tunnels and very lumpy. Was a hard day and it was dark by the time I found a small park to camp in at Ofunato. One of the reasons the R45 is so busy is due to the construction traffic rebuilding tsunami/earthquake defence’s as this coast was hit quite bad with the epicenter near Sendai.

Lots of concrete defenses being built to protect against future tsunami.

Off the ferry


40ml. Rode with Ken this morning after breakfast and we went to Norboribetsu and Hell valley. Nice climb up there in the heat and then a small walk to the viewing area. Smelt like Rotoroa and the rotten eggs ha. Well after the ride back down to Norboribetsu, I said goodbye to Ken and tried to find a camping spot on a river but no luck. I stop at 7/11, get WiFi and discover there’s a campsite 400m above Muroran. So I head up there and it was worth the climb as it’s nice and cool. I take a day off and hike up Mt Washibetsu which had great views vrom the top. Tomorrow I’ll go the last 10ml. to the port for the ferry back to Honshu, so it’s goodbye to beautiful Hokkaido.

Ken the inspirational cyclist. Top man

View down to Muroran from summit

Top of Mt washibetsu

Hell valley

Hell valley

Road up to hell valley

Geyser in Norboribetsu


74ml. This was done over 3 days just following the coast road. 1st day was to Hidaka with Dan and Ell, 20ml and wild camped on a river. 2nd day 32ml. Another short day due to the heat and did shopping in Tomakomai for a USB fan, which works great, and a groundsheet for the tent. Then found a wild camp spot near a baseball ground in tomakomai. 3rd day, 22ml, short one again to Shiraoi, bought a dry bag and ditched the saddlebag and changed my whole luggage around so this took all morning ha. Wild camp on the side of a lake and met a cyclist called Ken who cycled for 2.5 years in SE Asia, Mexico to Argentina and Morocco and Europe at 65years old. What an inspiration and a great guy.

Wild camp at the lakeside at Shiraoi


40ml. Another humid night and not much sleep due to a noisy group at it till 3am.

Urakawa museum

Leaving Samani campsite



After breakfast I’m on the highway heading to Tomakomai. Seems very busy on here today compared to yesterday and already had 2 close passbys from quarry trucks, which is unusual here. No campground on this route for a long way now so maybe a Michi no Eki or a quiet park for camping tonight. Got in touch with Dan and Ell and they was camping at a place 40kms in front of me so I headed for there and had a few beers and chat on a nice campsite up a steep hill.



54ml. After breakfast and packing up it’s another black sky out there but no rain falls and the sun appears after an hour. Lots of tunnels south of Hiroo and the longest was 3mile. But the road is quiet and I take the R34 down to Erimo Cape. As soon as I turn down the 34 I’m hit hard by a strong wind and it’s slow going. The crosswind neatly blows me off twice but after 10ml I reach the Cape. Very misty so hardly any view but I have an ice cream and a rest here. When I set off again now it’s a head wind with 25ml to go. Few ups and downs but eventually I make it to Oyakowafureai beach campsite. At 6.20pm.

Cape Erimo very windy and misty

Surfers on the way

R34 heading for Cape Erimo


39ml.Up early again today with the sun making the tent like a greenhouse. 5.00am. onto R336 again heading to Hiroo. Quiet road to start with but as I get closer to Hiroo there’s more traffic on the road but not too bad with a good shoulder to ride on. Stop at Hiroo at a brand new supermarket just past 7/11 and stock up on food. As I come out the rain starts so I shelter at 7/11 but the sky is black and I decide to stay at Hiroo campsite about a mile back. It’s 210 yen and in a forest but the toilet and kitchen is superb. Lots of charging points around the kitchen. Only thing is there’s lot of insects to contend with due to being in nature. Never seen as many daddy long legs lol. Struggled sleeping as well as it’s so hot and humid tonight.

On route to Hiroo

Seen a few of these on the road




171ml. Nosappu to lake Chobushi.
Did this over 4days.all along the coast road. 53ml to Kiritappu Cape, then a short day 28ml, adjusted my brakes on route to Akkeshi and I met the Dutch cyclists, Darna and Janneka again. Had a day off with them and we sheltered all afternoon and night due to drizzle and fog. Managed to clean all the bike and fit a new chain in the morning. Then after saying goodbye to Darna and Janneka, who made a delicious meal last night and pancakes this morning, yummy, 51ml to Shiranuka and wild camped just outside of town near a baseball ground with a portaloo. Lastly, 39ml to a great campsite at lake Chobushi. I took R1038 and it was deserted. I called down to Otsu on a bike path to try and find a shop but no luck. Glad I had some food with me. The lake was busy with people swimming and picnics but they all left in the evening and there was only 2 more camping. Very quiet night.

Eagle at Nemuro Peninsula

Cape Nosappu

View from the bridge at Akkeshi

Quiet almost deserted coast road

Sundown at lake Chobushi



71ml. Said goodbye to Mel this morning as she headed to lake Kussharo and I’m heading to Nemuro. I headed down R244. It was windy so it was not easy going. I caught up with Joonsuk, a Korean rider I met a couple of days ago and heading the same way. It’s still only 4pm when I reach Nemuro so I decide to go all the way to the Cape. The park I planned to camp in was all open and I would have had to wait for it going dark to set up the tent, but it was cold and I found a rider house  nearby, so I book in there for 1,200 yen. I spotted red crowned cranes and a white tailed eagle on the way today.

Cape Nosappu



Red crowned cranes



31ml. After the rain all night and most of the morning it’s a late start and Dan and Ell arrived just as we was leaving. Dan was shivering from the cold and the same happened to them, as us yesterday on the climb. Steady day to Shibetsu and arrived pretty early about 3.30pm. great campsite with an onsen and 7/11 within 200m. So it was set up tent, coffee and snack 7/11 then into the onsen for a nice clean up. I made curry and rice for my tea and Mel ate out. We had a few sherberts sat at the tents as we go separate ways tomorrow. A cheeky fox ripped it’s it’ into Mel’s tent and stole some food while she was away and it came back and stole some chocolate while I was sat within a few feet away. It was so brazen and not scared at all. This is the reason you shouldn’t feed wild animals. I learnt from this.




23ml. After leaving Dan and Ell me and Mel set off up the 10km climb in beautiful sunshine. About 2 miles from the top it gets cold and wet. Eventually we reach the campsite about 4kms before Rausu and call it a day. My hands take an hour to get feeling back in them. There’s a free hot spring opposite the campsite but after stripping off, I can’t go in as it’s too hot. It rains the rest of the day and all night. 


Saying goodbye to Dan and Ell.


42ml. Rode with Dan and Ell today to the Shiretoko peninsula. Wasn’t a bad road and a nice waterfall on the way. Got to the campsite and set up the tents and me and Mel rode the 14kms up to the Goko 5 lakes. Beautiful place. There’s an elevated boardwalk to the 1st lake which is protected by an electric fence due to so many bears in the area. You can do the full walk at ground level but you have to book the guided group tour because of the bears. Then it was back to the campsite for a few beers and more laughs with Dan and Ell.

Sundown at Utoro campsite

Lots of deer on way back from Goko lakes

View from elevated boardwalk

Goko lakes

Nice waterfall on route to Utoro


28ml. From Yamabe to here, I’ve left out as I more or less did the route in earlier posts. Me and Mel met Dan and Ell at the 7/11 and camped with them at the lake. They’re both from England and very funny so it was great to sit down and chat with them. In the morning Dan and Ell left early and Mel had a problem with her rear derailleur so we messes about with that for a while and just as we was about to leave another cyclist from England turned up. Pete from Scarborough. He’s been on the road for 14month. Sold all his possessions and decided to cycle the world. Good on yer Pete. So now after finding a bike shop in Abashiri, but they don’t have any rear derailleur, we carry on hoping the old one holds out. We get to a rider house in Shari but it’s also the campground and Dan and Ell are there so another funny night.

Campsite at lake Abashiri with Dan and Ell

Nice waterfall on route between Kamikawa and Sounkyo

Caught his dinner. R39 on way to Sounkyo


88ml. After an early rise and 6.15am start I’m off and away to meet Mel and Anna at Yamabe. It’s freezing as I cycle straight over the pass to start and it’s very foggy and drizzle in the air. R241 to Kamishihoro then I take some parallel quiet roads to R274 then R593 and across to R38. I have a 10km climb up Sahoro Dake and on the way down the sun comes out and I eventually start to feel warm. It’s downhill all the way to Minifurano. A stop at the 7/11 for coffee and a bite to eat and now it’s only 20mile to Yamabe to meet Mel and Anna at the campsite.

Woke up next to this !

Mel from Canada and Anna from Austria.


56ml. I missed out the days from Yamabe as I did this earlier in the trip and it’s a repeat of earlier posts in the other direction. I came back to Furano and Biei to see the flowers in full bloom which I was too early for last time, and wow, am I glad. It was beautiful. I left the campsite at Shirogane with Mel from Canada and Anna from Austria went solo in a different direction. We rode a really nice river path from Nagayama to Kamikawa and stopped short of Sounkyo, due to the rain starting. We stayed at the side of a baseball ground with a toilet there and just camped under some trees. Went to 7/11 for wine and had a nice meal, which Mel cooked of veg and rice and a good chinwag with the wine.

Campsite at Kamifurano with Mel, Anna, and the Dutch ladies, Janneka and Darna. World travellers from Holland

Beautiful lavender farm.


59ml. After leaving campsite I’m straight onto R1093 to lake Akan. 1st 10mile is asphalt then it turns to gravel for 10ml. It rises to 400m and I had to push in one stretch due to the loose surface and back wheel spinning. Down into the village on the shore of lake Akan and it’s beautiful. The Lake Akan Ainu Kotan is an Ainu kotan (settlement) inhabited by about 120 people in 36 residences. As a point of production and sale of traditional crafts which are among Hokkaido’s best-known souvenirs. It’s fascinating and I was here a long time looking at the souvenir shops. There’s also a theatre where dancing and singing ceremony takes place. This makes me late and still 40ml to go. I arrive at Ashoro just before dark and the campsite is closed but I go in anyway. It’s empty and I pitch my tent hoping I leave early before anyone comes and tells me off ha.

Ainu village

Fantastic souvenir shops

Ainu visitor center

Lake Akan

Nice view from the top of the gravel road

Gravel road to lake Akan


71ml.  A few days off at the Cape due to having vertigo again and feeling dizzy. Had a great time. On Sunday it was the fish festival and the night before I was invited to join a group of Japanese friends who gave me food and drink. I can’t remember their names but great people, I even met the mayor and was given crab and oysters. There was a crab speed eating contest at the fish festival which was really good to watch and a young woman won. Everyone there was given a free pass for the onsen neat the campground.

Lovely group who made me feel at home.

Crab speed eating contest at the fish festival

Cape Azechi just past the onsen near Cape Kiritappu campsite.



I did this route over 2 days due to the late start, so I rode 26ml to Akkeshi 1st, a great site for ¥210 and from there the next day I took the R14 up to the R1128 and then some unnumbered quiet roads over to lake Toro. I was heading to lake Akan today but after visiting the fantastic shibecha museum, opposite the lake Toro visitor center about the wetlands history and wildlife, I only have enough time to get to Tsurui, the 2nd time I’ve stayed here now. Oh and I passed a viewing observatory for one of the wetlands views so I climbed the steps for a few photos.

One of the many great views of Kushiro wetlands

Some exhibits at shibecha museum

Shibecha museum

Lake Toro

Akkeshi campsite


52ml.After brekki I follow the coast route 142 and after 17ml I reach route 44 and there’s a 7/11 on the junction so it’s coffee time. When I reach Akkeshi, I do a little food shopping and decide to take the coast route to Hamanaka, Even though the highway looks the easier route. I arrive at Cape Kiritappu after 6pm and it’s cold but luckily there’s an indoor cooking facility open till 8pm so I cook some pasta for tea in the warm out of the wind instead of making my intended sandwich. I’ve been getting dizzy spells in the morning last few days and it seems my vertigo has come back from when I was in NZ, so I’m looking at having a day off tomorrow or even the weekend as there’s also a hot springs within 2miles. Nice to have a soak and good wash ha.

Cape Kiritappu campsite

Lots of these signs near the coast

Lake Hichirippu inlet on the way


25ml. At least the temperature is up lol. Rain  all day again. I’m heading towards Kushiro and sheltering at mo on free WiFi outside a seicomart at Tsurui. Just took my waterproof off because it looked like a break in the cloud and my weather app said no rain. 5mins later it’s coming down again ha. I was told no rain on Hokkaido in june. It’s now July and the weather is so unpredictable. An uneventful day so far. Just been to look at the free campground here and it’s quite nice on the river with a stage there and free WiFi. There’s quite a few there as well which I’ve noticed last couple of nights so maybe it’s the start of the holidays here. May be stopping here if the rain doesn’t stop. Well by the time the rain stops and the sky towards my intended direction to Kushiro looks black, I’m staying here. It’s 16.40 and not worth the risk of a downpour for the sake of pushing on 20ml.


Shelter at seicomart in Tsurui


48ml. Left bright and early this morning and after a short while I was on a 650m climb up Mt Mokotoyama and the full waterproof gear came out. Couldn’t see any views which was a shame, for the low cloud. Got to the top and a great viewing area of lake Kussharu but was dull and cloudy so not a great view. I was making for the campsite here but after all the rain I decided to head for a rider house about the same distance away. I was cold and couldn’t feel my fingers in my right hand. I arrived at a rest station at Teshikaga and met a family of 4 on great bikes, from Switzerland. I chatted for a while and decided to camp in the nearby park with an onsen round the corner. The Swiss family were also getting warm and had the same plan to camp in the park. Luckily my tent fit under the shelter in the park so I could keep out of the rain and have a dry tent in the morning. After pitching the tent it was off to the onsen, ¥400, and felt great and warmed up after. Then it was curry and rice and a cup of tea before bed.

The amazing Swiss family, travelling now for 9months.

Sumo museum at Kawayu

Lake Kussharu from the view point. Shame about the cloud

Mt Mokotoyama started to get cloud cover.

Looking down at Abashiri Quasi national park

Passing an ostrich farm on the way.

Mt Mokotoyama in the distance.


41ml.Wake up to find a feed station being put up for an ultra marathon that’s taking place today. Start was from Yubetsu and set off time for the first runners was 05.30am. 100km’s, wow that’s some run. After packing up and breakfast, same as yesterday, I set off and my route is the same as the runners. It’s great with all the Marshall’s keeping the runners safe all along the way. I feel like pulling in a feed station and being cheeky to get food, as all the people are egging me on too. But I keep going past lots of runners but when I hit a hill, they over take me. They are very fit and all ages, both men and women. There’s even people set up their own little tables at the roadside to give runners snacks and drinks at their own expense. A fantastic culture in Japan. The people are so kind, generous and polite. Even policemen and road workers bow to you if you’ve had to wait. I eventually leave the runners route at Tokoro and pick up a cycle path all the way to Omagari which goes past lake Notoro and finishes at Lake Abashiri. I stop at a 7/11 store for some WiFi and a nice lady comes to me and hands me a bag of sweets and a carton of cake’s, so nice, this happens quite often. The free campsite is a great location right on the bank of the lake.

Cycle path along lake Abashiri

Chilling on the beautiful free campground at lake Abashiri

Cycle path along the lake’s.


37ml. After the day off I wait for the rain to stop before having breakfast, coffee and peanut butter sandwich. Dry the tent and pack up sharp before it rains again. It’s warmer today, 18°, so off I go to Yubetsu. Rode to the top end of the lake till you could go no more, where the sea comes in between land and into the lake. The campground is closed. So dead opposite where I am is a rider house, 12ml away so I sprint round there and arrive just as the rain starts. No one here. Doesn’t open for another hour and I can’t ring to book a space due to language barrier. Let’s hope there’s room for me, so I take shelter and decide to wait rather than do another 10ml to the next campsite. Only half an hour and the guy turns up and there’s space in the railway carriage. ¥300 for the night and ¥100 for the shower oh and the washing machine is free so I do all my laundry. So that was great and all for £2.90. I make myself a curry and rice, coffee with a bar of chocolate and retire to my carriage.

1st to arrive in the carriage and set up my space.

Rider house accomodation

The massive lake samora, biggest in Hokkaido

Shrine on the way at Yubetsu


31ml. Wow it was 28° yesterday and I get going today and the temperature has dropped to 12°. Can’t believe how cold I am, gloves, long pants and coat on and I’m still cold. Only a short day to the next campsite rather than go where I intended at double the distance. Up a hill climb as usual lol and I have to ask where to camp as it’s such a big park. A man lets me follow him in his car and shows me where. It’s cold and loads of crows here so have to be careful leaving any food unattended. One pinched my peanut butter sandwich a while back lol. Only me here but the toilet has an electric socket so I can charge my Garmin and phone. It rains all night and most of the morning so I’m staying here as it’s cold again, well it is for me anyway, and it’s supposed to warm up tomorrow. Going shopping for some gas for my stove and a few food supplies.

Engaru free campsite



65ml. Over 2 passes today, the 1st is Mikuni pass at 1,139m and is the highest national road in Hokkaido. Nice little cafe at the top where I treated myself to a curry and rice then a lovely ice cream. After the next pass I was getting worried as to where I was going to camp because there was no village or town and lots of bear signs. But I never pedalled for 6miles going down and did 30ml in quick time and when I stopped for a sandwich at the side of the road I glanced at the map and a rest station and campsite was only 6ml away. Happy days. Now I felt more at ease and happy.there was also a 7/11 store right near my turning to buy some supplies.

Rest station at Rubeshibe

Mikuni pass

Lots of beware bear signs

Taushubetsu bridge


42ml. Another big climb today past the beautiful lake Shikaribetsu and down to the campground at lake Nukabira. Nice scenery and quiet roads. Stopped for I e cream at lake Shikaribetsu and nearly stood on a snake, scary. Not sure if it’s poisonous or not but made me jump. Lots of mozzie and bugs at the campground but in nature this is the price. Now I’m rural again the number of insects is astounding, beetles and spiders and bugs of all kinds and colours. Amazing but keep the tent zipped ha.

Road to lake Nukabira

Into his hiding place

Nearly stood on this


39ml. Steady start and a stop at beautiful lake kanayama. Bought some food supplies in Minamiforano, from there it’s a long climb to the top of the pass and then down to a free campground at Sahoro. Lots of bears in the eastern area and many signs warning to beware. Quite worrying I must say especially when camping.

Scenic Yamabe


Lake kanayama



32ml. After the day off I start with a 6ml. Climb but a steady gradient apart from the Bogakudai viewpoint. More foxes along the way. After a great long downhill I get a bad headwind which makes it hard going. Furano is beautiful and so is Yamabe. Shame it’s too early for the flowers, what a sight it would be with the purple lavender fields in July. Stock up with food at a supermarket in Furano and make it to a beautiful campsite which is free 2km out of Yamabe.

Yamabe leaving campsite

Beautiful scenery around Furano

Mt Tokachi from the Bogakudai viewpoint.




34ml. Went to Biei and called in at tourist office to see if any campsite nearby. Nearest one was at Shirogane so I carried on to the blue pond and Shirahige waterfall on a nice bike path along the river. Beautiful place with lots of hot spring onsens. Campsite was quiet and beautiful also. Heavy rain forecast tomorrow so I had a day off. Went up to the volcano Observatory and was really interesting history and measures what are in place now in case of another Mt Tokachi eruption.

Blue pond

Shirahige waterfall

Beautiful national Shirogane campsite.

Mt Biei, 16 peaks over 2,000m here.

Mt Tokachi volcano.still active

Great bike path from Biei to the blue pond.


42ml. Steady today on quiet roads. Stopped for dinner at a nice park on Minamigaoka reservoir. Heading for Biei and the sky darkened like heavy rain on its way towards me, so I set up camp early on a free beautiful campground with a golf course on it at Asahikawa. Lawson’s convenience store close by.

Entrance to the free campground

Fed another friendly fox

Minamigaoka reservoir

Nice lunch stop.

Great river paths on route, no traffic and good for camping.


65ml. Took route 118 today thinking it was a quiet road and Mapycz also dire Ted me that way. Big mistake. Got to another locked gate across the road and risked it again. What I came to was 10mile of offroad trail and 450m of elevation. Ha I like a challenge obviously. My thumb was hurting from ringing the bell all the time. It was too far to go back and it only occured to me later about the risk of bears when I startled something and heard lots of cracking of trees as it ran. It could have been a deer but made as much noise as I could and pedalled fast. I eventually arrive at the campsite but it looks like it’s been shut down. I pitch the tent after being eaten alive with mosquito and make for the onsen opposite for a nice clean up.

Nice painting on a farm building.

Saw this little chap on the way.

All goes downhill after here lol

Just before I get to the 118 locked gate.


42ml. After 3 nights at the campsite waiting for the weather to improve and coincided nicely with my birthday celebration, I’m again travelling south although the rain has started again and it’s a tad cold.

Celebrating my birthday.



A steady day and I’m glad to reach a free cabin on the outskirts of Nakagawa to warm up and cook a meal.

Yama, the only other guy in a tent makes me a lovely meal

Road to Nakagawa

Yama doing a painting.


36ml. At last a clear morning and manage to get some pictures of Mt Rishiri. After packing up I go on the cycleway back to Oshidomari and say my goodbyes to Patrick and Marcus. I do a quick shop at Nicot for some food and leave my gas bottle behind rushing for the ferry grrrr. After arriving back at Wakkanai, I ride 20ml south on a great cycle path parallel to route 40 which takes me to a great campsite at Kabutonuma. I check in for 2 nights as there’s a bad storm expected tonight that’s in for a while and find a sheltered spot in the trees.

Last shot of Mt Rishiri before the cloud cover.

Last shot of Mt Rishiri before the cloud cover.

On the way back to Oshidomari.

4am picture of Mt Rishiri.


28ml. After a day off updating the blog and chilling in the onsen, I decide to explore the island. I set off to cycle around, it’s only 38miles around the circumference so I just take my time and use the cycle path to start with which is approx 6 ml long from the campground heading south. I arrive at a lonely  Numaura free campground but there’s signs all over the place saying bear prints and feaces have been spotted near in 2 locations so I decide to carry on as I know I’ll not sleep worrying. A little further and I arrive at Otadomari swamp and take in the beautiful view. Shame about the low cloud as I’ve yet to see Mt Rishiri summit since I’ve been here. The wind is very strong today so I’m glad when I arrive at Kutsugata campground. Takes me an age to find a sheltered spot for the tent out of the wind but I make my mind up on the best spot and then make some rice and curry for tea. Then I settle in for the rough night ahead.

Best sheltered spot I could find.

Very windy today

Otadomari swamp.

Great cycle route from campsite


23ml. Raining again ha, I get a little break in the rain and manage to dry the tent before it starts again. I set off in full waterproof gear up to Cape Sukoton, most northern point on Rebun island. After the photo I sit in the cafe and have an inflated prices coffee, ¥400 normal price is 100, but it’s worthwhile for the shelter and the nice chilled out view to reflect on all the milage I’ve done since Fukuoka. I was going to stay another night but due to the rain I elect to catch the ferry to Rishiri hoping I may get better weather. When I arrive at Oshidomari it’s still raining so I decide to do a food shop and use the campground here which is opposite an onsen. When I get to the campground I’m surprised to see Patrick and his mate here. I met Patrick near Chitose over a week ago. They have been here a few days as his mate has developed a problem with his knee and can’t cycle.

Patrick and Marcus.

Patrick’s folding bicycle he built up for this trip.

Great campsite at Oshidomari.

Wet Cape Sukoton.

Cape Sukoton.


24ml. After my day off at the rider house I post the postcards to family at the post office and get the 1105am ferry to Rebun island. I chat with a Scotsman who’s travelling in a car around Japan, still ain’t met anyone from England, and after landing at Rebun I cycle as far south as the road takes me and then west as far as the road goes. As you guessed it’s only a small island, 29km long and 8km wide, then I cycle north to a nice campsite at lake Kushu. I set up the tent and have a shower, ¥100 then settle down in the tent as it’s cold again. Birds singing all night so I don’t get much sleep.

Campground at lake Kushu.

Luckily I get a decent shot of Mt Rishiri which was unexpected due to all the cloudy weather.

View of Mt Rishiri summit from south of Rebun island.


40ml. Cleaned the bike and degreased and relined the drive chain and cogs this morning, making use of the hosepipe and bucket at the rider house. I booked through to stay at another rider house in Wakkanai as the weather is cold for next few days. 20ml to Cape Soya and have my photo taken by another young girl cyclist who has cycled from Okinawa.  Well I’m finally here after 1,913m or 3,078km and 38 cycling days The northernmost point of Japan. The young girl is staying at the same rider house which is handy as she speaks perfect English as she moved to Canada with her parents for 12yrs, but back in Japan on her own now. I book an extra night and take a day off to update the blog and download all my Garmin activities. Fantastic Rider house where every night a ritual is performed and the same lady has been doing it for 29yrs. It’s worth stopping just for the proceedings and everyone is so friendly even if there’s a big language barrier.

Mt Rishiri in the distance on the road to Wakkanai.

Finally Cape Soya.


40ml. Was heading for Cape Soya today, 60ml but after a very misty morning and temperature dropping to 10° but felt colder cycling in the wind, I decide to stop short at a rest station at Sarufutsu as I think the Cape will be even colder. While at the rest station I look on a website and see a rider house is only 2km back and just by coincidence a man speaks to me in good English. I tell him about the rider house and he rings through for me to book. He says I must go immediately to check in as he has somewhere to go at 3pm. Great ¥1,000 for a warm bed for the night. After I check in, I go back towards Soya to see if I can find a cyclist called Kat who lives in London and has cycled the full length of Japan. It’s cold and I give up thinking I’ve missed her or she has stopped earlier. I go for coffee in seicomart convenience store and she rolls up. It’s such a pleasure to meet her and speak English again ha. She also speaks Japanese as she lived here for a number of years before she moved to London. I ride with Kat and another young Japanese cyclist who we see at the rest station back to the rider house and say goodbye as they do another 20ml to a lake for camping. How brave in this cold. Tougher than old me I can tell you.


19ml. After a nice onsen in the hotel it’s a late start, 12.30. The rain comes again as I hit the opposite coast at Esashi, so I decide to camp on the free campground on the shore. On the way I was almost being deafened by the noisy Cicadas after leaving. Also beware bear signs again as they told me at the hotel that 3 had been spotted a few weeks ago.




The noisy Cicadas.

Lenticular clouds in view from Esashi campground.


67ml. Long day with lots of hills. Very quiet and scenic again. Took road to Bifuka and as I hit the main Street I saw an ice cream sign so I went in and saw they also served noodle soup. I had both and it was delicious. Opposite was a supermarket so I stocked up on food as there is nothing to my next stop of Utonobori where I hope to find a park to camp. Such a quiet road I even meet a hungry fox and share my bar of chocolate with him. 7km short of Utanabori I notice a sign in Japanese and decide to look on my map app as it looks like a national park. Voila, a hotel, onsen and free campground. Only problem I’m told at the hotel, the campground is a mile up on top of a mountain. So I decline the temptation of the hot bath as I know I’ll be sweating at the top of the hill. What a beauty, only me there and 2 lovely wooden buildings, one a kind of museum about tree habitat there and the other a lounge/ eating area with sink for washing up. Great stop and just before dark too.

Beautiful campsite at the top of the hill.

Saying goodbye to lake Shumarinai.


56ml. At midday the rain came down heavy till 4pm so got a bit sweaty and wet under my waterproofs. I headed inland today from the coast at Obira. Nice route and quiet, just a shame about the weather but on a positive the campsite for ¥600 was beautiful on the manmade lake Shumarinai. ¥100 for a shower and a crow pinched my peanut butter sandwich while I turned my back for a second. They are bad and not afraid. You have to be careful and keep food hidden away or its its gone.

Great scenery on route.

Nice views on the way.

Making tea at lake Shumarinai.


36ml. Short day due to the rain starting. Had to shelter a couple of times along the way. Campsite was on a grass shelf on the beach side. Was cold again tonight and rain forecast all night. Cornflakes for tea then early to bed.



58ml. Great ride up route 28 north of Tobetsu. After saying goodbye to ken and his lovely family. I ride up past Lake Tobetsufukoro and join the 451 to a free site back on the coast. Great route and quiet roads today.

Great sundown at Hamamasu.

Lake Tobetsufukoro.

Nice scenery past the dam.


Lazy day riding around today. Arrive at Ken, warm shower host’s. Receive a warm welcome from him and his family and have a great pasta evening meal. Ken travelled extensively in his younger days. I loved listening to his tales. A really nice and kind family.

Ken and his wife.



28ml. After drying tent out I ride to a shopping centre and look around for a couple of hours just to kill some time as I’ve another night in tent before I can arrive at warm shower host near Sapporo. I go to an onsen on the outskirts of Chitose and meet a young German cyclist called Patrick who’s going to a campsite which isn’t on my map so I decide to go there after the onsen if the rain doesn’t start, rather than a small park around the corner.


36ml. Rode to Lake Shikotsu and the clouds looked dark. Was going to go all the way to Sapporo but the warm shower host couldn’t accommodate me a day early so I rode out to the coast on a bicycle path and the weather turned cold. The rain came down so I found a shelter in a park to set the tent under.

Lake Shikotsu.


52ml. Great day today, the views around lake Toya were breathtaking. I met Sue and her husband coming the other way, they are from Australia and it was really good to chat to someone who spoke English. I eventually reach my rest station but it was closed due to renovations but I found a quiet spot to camp around the back.

The great view from lake Toya.

The beautiful Lake Toya.

Dinosaur at rest station


61ml. Followed route 5 and then do erred around lake Onuma and joined the 5 further north from the lake on a quiet road. Big shoulder to ride on the road. Parked just outside the town as a sign in the park said no camping. First I’ve seen in a park. I probably would have been ok if I’d have set up late but it was quite chilly so decided to find somewhere else.

Lake Onuma.


36ml. Woke up to the rain just starting so I manage to get the tent under cover and packed before it gets wet. I use this opportunity to fit a new chain and brake disc pads. Set off for Cape Oma where I planned to camp but it was far too windy and the temperature had dropped, was cold at Cape Oma. So I decide to catch the ferry to Hakodate port Hokkaido. I found a quiet road that bypassed Hakodate and made it to a new rest station just north of Nanae on route 5. Found a small nice piece of grass to pitch the tent at the back which was perfect and quiet from the road.

Cape Oma, famous for its tuna.


36ml. Rode to Kanika ferry port and got the ferry across to Sotogahama. Big climb going up towards Cape Oma. Went straight up at the junction instead of heading to the coast to see some tourist sight of a formation of big rocks. Was going to camp at the top of the hill at a small rest station but there was too many monkeys so I carried on and found a disused sports ground just on the way into the village.

Lots of Japanese monkeys on the climb.

Ferry port at Sotogahama.

Yes, more bear signs.



56ml. Rode up to Cape Tappi, took melon road past Lake Jusanko which was quiet and scenic. 7km climb to get there with great views. Was going to camp there but it was too windy so I carried on and found a lovely small deserted park at the back of a Family mart to camp.

Beautiful Cape Tappi.

Cape Tappi.

Cape Tappi.

Great views going up the climb.

More beware bear signs on the climb.

Lake Jusanko.


61ml. Felt tired today and the road was a bit hilly with the wind more of a cross wind. Called in an onsen after 10ml so maybe that sapped some energy. Wild camped on the beach near the port.

Another great sundown.