42ml. After 3 nights at the campsite waiting for the weather to improve and coincided nicely with my birthday celebration, I’m again travelling south although the rain has started again and it’s a tad cold.

Celebrating my birthday.



A steady day and I’m glad to reach a free cabin on the outskirts of Nakagawa to warm up and cook a meal.

Yama, the only other guy in a tent makes me a lovely meal

Road to Nakagawa

Yama doing a painting.


36ml. At last a clear morning and manage to get some pictures of Mt Rishiri. After packing up I go on the cycleway back to Oshidomari and say my goodbyes to Patrick and Marcus. I do a quick shop at Nicot for some food and leave my gas bottle behind rushing for the ferry grrrr. After arriving back at Wakkanai, I ride 20ml south on a great cycle path parallel to route 40 which takes me to a great campsite at Kabutonuma. I check in for 2 nights as there’s a bad storm expected tonight that’s in for a while and find a sheltered spot in the trees.

Last shot of Mt Rishiri before the cloud cover.

Last shot of Mt Rishiri before the cloud cover.

On the way back to Oshidomari.

4am picture of Mt Rishiri.


28ml. After a day off updating the blog and chilling in the onsen, I decide to explore the island. I set off to cycle around, it’s only 38miles around the circumference so I just take my time and use the cycle path to start with which is approx 6 ml long from the campground heading south. I arrive at a lonely  Numaura free campground but there’s signs all over the place saying bear prints and feaces have been spotted near in 2 locations so I decide to carry on as I know I’ll not sleep worrying. A little further and I arrive at Otadomari swamp and take in the beautiful view. Shame about the low cloud as I’ve yet to see Mt Rishiri summit since I’ve been here. The wind is very strong today so I’m glad when I arrive at Kutsugata campground. Takes me an age to find a sheltered spot for the tent out of the wind but I make my mind up on the best spot and then make some rice and curry for tea. Then I settle in for the rough night ahead.

Best sheltered spot I could find.

Very windy today

Otadomari swamp.

Great cycle route from campsite


23ml. Raining again ha, I get a little break in the rain and manage to dry the tent before it starts again. I set off in full waterproof gear up to Cape Sukoton, most northern point on Rebun island. After the photo I sit in the cafe and have an inflated prices coffee, ¥400 normal price is 100, but it’s worthwhile for the shelter and the nice chilled out view to reflect on all the milage I’ve done since Fukuoka. I was going to stay another night but due to the rain I elect to catch the ferry to Rishiri hoping I may get better weather. When I arrive at Oshidomari it’s still raining so I decide to do a food shop and use the campground here which is opposite an onsen. When I get to the campground I’m surprised to see Patrick and his mate here. I met Patrick near Chitose over a week ago. They have been here a few days as his mate has developed a problem with his knee and can’t cycle.

Patrick and Marcus.

Patrick’s folding bicycle he built up for this trip.

Great campsite at Oshidomari.

Wet Cape Sukoton.

Cape Sukoton.


24ml. After my day off at the rider house I post the postcards to family at the post office and get the 1105am ferry to Rebun island. I chat with a Scotsman who’s travelling in a car around Japan, still ain’t met anyone from England, and after landing at Rebun I cycle as far south as the road takes me and then west as far as the road goes. As you guessed it’s only a small island, 29km long and 8km wide, then I cycle north to a nice campsite at lake Kushu. I set up the tent and have a shower, ¥100 then settle down in the tent as it’s cold again. Birds singing all night so I don’t get much sleep.

Campground at lake Kushu.

Luckily I get a decent shot of Mt Rishiri which was unexpected due to all the cloudy weather.

View of Mt Rishiri summit from south of Rebun island.


40ml. Cleaned the bike and degreased and relined the drive chain and cogs this morning, making use of the hosepipe and bucket at the rider house. I booked through to stay at another rider house in Wakkanai as the weather is cold for next few days. 20ml to Cape Soya and have my photo taken by another young girl cyclist who has cycled from Okinawa.  Well I’m finally here after 1,913m or 3,078km and 38 cycling days The northernmost point of Japan. The young girl is staying at the same rider house which is handy as she speaks perfect English as she moved to Canada with her parents for 12yrs, but back in Japan on her own now. I book an extra night and take a day off to update the blog and download all my Garmin activities. Fantastic Rider house where every night a ritual is performed and the same lady has been doing it for 29yrs. It’s worth stopping just for the proceedings and everyone is so friendly even if there’s a big language barrier.

Mt Rishiri in the distance on the road to Wakkanai.

Finally Cape Soya.


40ml. Was heading for Cape Soya today, 60ml but after a very misty morning and temperature dropping to 10° but felt colder cycling in the wind, I decide to stop short at a rest station at Sarufutsu as I think the Cape will be even colder. While at the rest station I look on a website and see a rider house is only 2km back and just by coincidence a man speaks to me in good English. I tell him about the rider house and he rings through for me to book. He says I must go immediately to check in as he has somewhere to go at 3pm. Great ¥1,000 for a warm bed for the night. After I check in, I go back towards Soya to see if I can find a cyclist called Kat who lives in London and has cycled the full length of Japan. It’s cold and I give up thinking I’ve missed her or she has stopped earlier. I go for coffee in seicomart convenience store and she rolls up. It’s such a pleasure to meet her and speak English again ha. She also speaks Japanese as she lived here for a number of years before she moved to London. I ride with Kat and another young Japanese cyclist who we see at the rest station back to the rider house and say goodbye as they do another 20ml to a lake for camping. How brave in this cold. Tougher than old me I can tell you.


19ml. After a nice onsen in the hotel it’s a late start, 12.30. The rain comes again as I hit the opposite coast at Esashi, so I decide to camp on the free campground on the shore. On the way I was almost being deafened by the noisy Cicadas after leaving. Also beware bear signs again as they told me at the hotel that 3 had been spotted a few weeks ago.




The noisy Cicadas.

Lenticular clouds in view from Esashi campground.


67ml. Long day with lots of hills. Very quiet and scenic again. Took road to Bifuka and as I hit the main Street I saw an ice cream sign so I went in and saw they also served noodle soup. I had both and it was delicious. Opposite was a supermarket so I stocked up on food as there is nothing to my next stop of Utonobori where I hope to find a park to camp. Such a quiet road I even meet a hungry fox and share my bar of chocolate with him. 7km short of Utanabori I notice a sign in Japanese and decide to look on my map app as it looks like a national park. Voila, a hotel, onsen and free campground. Only problem I’m told at the hotel, the campground is a mile up on top of a mountain. So I decline the temptation of the hot bath as I know I’ll be sweating at the top of the hill. What a beauty, only me there and 2 lovely wooden buildings, one a kind of museum about tree habitat there and the other a lounge/ eating area with sink for washing up. Great stop and just before dark too.

Beautiful campsite at the top of the hill.

Saying goodbye to lake Shumarinai.


56ml. At midday the rain came down heavy till 4pm so got a bit sweaty and wet under my waterproofs. I headed inland today from the coast at Obira. Nice route and quiet, just a shame about the weather but on a positive the campsite for ¥600 was beautiful on the manmade lake Shumarinai. ¥100 for a shower and a crow pinched my peanut butter sandwich while I turned my back for a second. They are bad and not afraid. You have to be careful and keep food hidden away or its its gone.

Great scenery on route.

Nice views on the way.

Making tea at lake Shumarinai.


36ml. Short day due to the rain starting. Had to shelter a couple of times along the way. Campsite was on a grass shelf on the beach side. Was cold again tonight and rain forecast all night. Cornflakes for tea then early to bed.



58ml. Great ride up route 28 north of Tobetsu. After saying goodbye to ken and his lovely family. I ride up past Lake Tobetsufukoro and join the 451 to a free site back on the coast. Great route and quiet roads today.

Great sundown at Hamamasu.

Lake Tobetsufukoro.

Nice scenery past the dam.


Lazy day riding around today. Arrive at Ken, warm shower host’s. Receive a warm welcome from him and his family and have a great pasta evening meal. Ken travelled extensively in his younger days. I loved listening to his tales. A really nice and kind family.

Ken and his wife.



28ml. After drying tent out I ride to a shopping centre and look around for a couple of hours just to kill some time as I’ve another night in tent before I can arrive at warm shower host near Sapporo. I go to an onsen on the outskirts of Chitose and meet a young German cyclist called Patrick who’s going to a campsite which isn’t on my map so I decide to go there after the onsen if the rain doesn’t start, rather than a small park around the corner.


36ml. Rode to Lake Shikotsu and the clouds looked dark. Was going to go all the way to Sapporo but the warm shower host couldn’t accommodate me a day early so I rode out to the coast on a bicycle path and the weather turned cold. The rain came down so I found a shelter in a park to set the tent under.

Lake Shikotsu.


52ml. Great day today, the views around lake Toya were breathtaking. I met Sue and her husband coming the other way, they are from Australia and it was really good to chat to someone who spoke English. I eventually reach my rest station but it was closed due to renovations but I found a quiet spot to camp around the back.

The great view from lake Toya.

The beautiful Lake Toya.

Dinosaur at rest station


61ml. Followed route 5 and then do erred around lake Onuma and joined the 5 further north from the lake on a quiet road. Big shoulder to ride on the road. Parked just outside the town as a sign in the park said no camping. First I’ve seen in a park. I probably would have been ok if I’d have set up late but it was quite chilly so decided to find somewhere else.

Lake Onuma.


36ml. Woke up to the rain just starting so I manage to get the tent under cover and packed before it gets wet. I use this opportunity to fit a new chain and brake disc pads. Set off for Cape Oma where I planned to camp but it was far too windy and the temperature had dropped, was cold at Cape Oma. So I decide to catch the ferry to Hakodate port Hokkaido. I found a quiet road that bypassed Hakodate and made it to a new rest station just north of Nanae on route 5. Found a small nice piece of grass to pitch the tent at the back which was perfect and quiet from the road.

Cape Oma, famous for its tuna.


36ml. Rode to Kanika ferry port and got the ferry across to Sotogahama. Big climb going up towards Cape Oma. Went straight up at the junction instead of heading to the coast to see some tourist sight of a formation of big rocks. Was going to camp at the top of the hill at a small rest station but there was too many monkeys so I carried on and found a disused sports ground just on the way into the village.

Lots of Japanese monkeys on the climb.

Ferry port at Sotogahama.

Yes, more bear signs.



56ml. Rode up to Cape Tappi, took melon road past Lake Jusanko which was quiet and scenic. 7km climb to get there with great views. Was going to camp there but it was too windy so I carried on and found a lovely small deserted park at the back of a Family mart to camp.

Beautiful Cape Tappi.

Cape Tappi.

Cape Tappi.

Great views going up the climb.

More beware bear signs on the climb.

Lake Jusanko.


61ml. Felt tired today and the road was a bit hilly with the wind more of a cross wind. Called in an onsen after 10ml so maybe that sapped some energy. Wild camped on the beach near the port.

Another great sundown.


83ml. Another flat road day with good tail wind. Found a nice river road from Hachirogata to Mitane with no traffic at all on for 10miles which was great. Camped at a Michi-no-Eki rest station.

Lots of hawks.


73ml. Great day with the wind behind me for a change. Flat all the way along this beautiful coastline again. Find a camp spot at the back of a Lawson’s convenience store. Very handy for the morning coffee.

Another great sundown at Kisakata.

Ice cream time.

Deserted beaches all the way up.


45ml. Another great day cycling the coast road. Late start at 12.30 due to the rain and drying the tent but hopefully fine weather for a while now. Coast road is quiet with traffic and mostly flat so it makes for pleasant riding.

Beautiful sundown at Kuwagawa

Few tunnels on the way.

Quiet on the coast road.


81ml. Left Taka after a nice breakfast of museli and followed the coast north. The wind was quite bad, more of a cross wind but was hard going. I had a bad 20ml stretch of highway which couldn’t be avoided with lots of tunnels then I had 20ml of cycleway, happy days. It’s forecast bad rain tonight so I’m looking for a shelter to pitch the tent under but unfortunately I was out of luck so I just camped out on a disused sports field.

The very kind and great man Taka

Great scenery again


46ml. Best day cycling so far here. Great quiet roads coupled with fantastic scenery. I took the 471 then onto the 360 to Toyama. I receive a warm welcome from Taka who I met in NZ and advised me to come to Japan. I’ve been getting lots of route information via email from him. He made a great meal, a veg curry and washed my dirty clothes which was great.

Great view’s on the 360 route


47ml. Another great day on good quiet roads and chose a mountain route over to make my way towards Toyama and Taka who I met in NZ. 1,100m climb but worth it for no traffic. Hida was a nice with quite a few tourists but I rode a few miles to a Michi-no-Eki to camp just outside Hida on the river.

Quite worrying seeing beware bear signs on these quiet roads.


56ml. Changed my route after setting off today to a more quiet side road. Was hilly but worth the effort as there was hardly any cars. I rode up past Iwaya dam which was beautiful and managed to find a spot to camp on this isolated road just before dark. I was a bit worried as I’d seen lots of monkeys a few Kms back so I covered by bike and bags with my bike parka.

Fantastic view from the Iwaya Dam.


42ml. Late start after a lovely breakfast with Robert and Jacqueline, she kindly rode with me showing my onward route and all the quiet roads through small villages. We. Parted after about 13miles and I rode over a pass, which unfortunately had a chain across at the top. Too far to go back so I carry on hoping I can get through. They’d been a landslide but was ok for me to get through on the bike but down the other side I had to take all the bags off the bike and lift it over a locked gate across the road. Hot a big urban area but just followed the river path’s and found a place to wild camp at the Riverside with a toilet just before dark.

Top of the pass and road closed.

Nice paint job.


35ml. Easy day making my way to warm shower host. Nice along lake Biwa, especially the botanic garden. Spent a while just chilling and enjoying all the beautiful plants and flowers. Met Robert, very funny man, and Jacquelene at their lovely house and enjoyed a great meal and conversation. A few Kms before I arrived and a man invited me in for tea and his wife made me some food. What a coincidence, he knew the yellow house where I was headed as Jacqueline used to teach him English.

Beautiful botanic garden at lake Biwa


36ml. After breakfast I rode the few Kms down to Nara park where the biggest Budda statue in Japan is housed in the biggest wooden building in the world. A fantastic place with lots of friendly wild deer that let you stroke them, but they’re only after treats. The Tojai-ji shrine is enormous and worth paying to go inside. So after my sight seeing I decide to miss Kyoto out as I heard it’s just so busy and full of tourists, I get to Kihan island at Lake Biwa and camp at the side of the lake in the park.

Camping at Lake Biwa.

Biggest bronze statue Buddha in Japan.

Great Buddha house

Lots of deer at Nara park


52ml. Quieter roads today till 20ml from Nara. Then urban hell again. Met Kisen who spoke English and told me not to camp in the park at Nara as it’s full of deer so he kindly found a campsite for me which was closed but he rang and arranged for me to stay there the night. I met a guy who was a professional darts player in Japan on the way to the campsite and he gave me some food and drink and we threw a few arrows ha. Was great to meet him and his lovely Mrs and he gave me his number in case I had any problems. Japanese people are so nice and polite.

The very kind Kisen who sorted my camp spot.


49ml. Better day riding today, took route 1 over a big hill and never saw a car. Then hit another urban area but it was pretty quiet as it’s Sunday. Got a ferry from Tokushima on the island of Shikoku to Wakayama back on to the main Honshu island. I followed a river path and found a lovely place to camp on the side of the river. Met Sako on the river path he’s been travelling over thinka year pulling his little house along. He does about 25kms a day.  I’ve sussed it now. If a river is going through a city or town and it’s it’s heading the way you want to go, then follow it even if it’s a little out of the way. It’s quicker, no traffic lights and quiet, no traffic and good places to camp along the way.

Met Sato along the river pulling his house along.


44ml. Another day in urban hell. Flat but up and down pavements and traffic lights become tiresome. Hot today, 28°. Campground at a park and paid ¥500, my first time paying to camp but I got a shower in the sports centre. Visited a beautiful park on route today.. Ritsunin park in Takamatsu.

Ritsunin park.


55ml. Flat roads today but bad due to urban hell with heavy traffic. Managed to find a wild camp before dark.

Nice sundown before bed.


47ml. Finish off Shimanami kaido cycleway today, the best view was on the last bridge. I ride south of imabari to a free campsite and just had a nice pleasant days easy riding.

Imabari castle


57ml. Got the ferry back to Kure and cycled to Onomichi where the start or end is for the more famous Shimanami kaido cycleway. You have to get a small ferry from Onomichi on Honshu island to the first island, a bit like the Woolwich ferry back home, ¥100 then you’re off. It was getting late so I got to the second island and camped on the campsite on a park with a big dinosaur model on it.

Peace museum, the only building that survived at the epi center of the atom bomb blast.

Sharing the campground with this fella.

1st bridge on Shimanami kaido.

On route to Onomichi through a long tunnel segregated from the traffic.


47ml. Caught the ferry from imabari to Okamurajima to do Tobishima Kaido. A cycle route that connects 7 islands by bridges. It’s fantastic as there’s little traffic on route. After arriving on Honshu I cycled to Kure and caught a ferry to Hiroshima. I was going back on myself at this point but I had to visit the atom bomb museum or peace museum as it’s called. A great place to visit although very sad looking round the place. I returned to the port and camped in a small park at the side. I went into a Lawson convenience store and met with Kav, an Irishman who lives there. First person I’ve met who speaks good English. Early ferry again in the morning so early to bed.

Great sights on the Tobishima Kaido cycleway

One of the bridges on Tobishima Kaido.


65ml. I leave Kyushu island and After an early rise I get the ferry to Yawatahama on Shikoku island. I was cycling and was going to go all the way to Imabari but decided to fall short and go to a campsite on the beach about 8mile short. Nice and quiet and rain came down as soon as I set up the tent so was a good choice.

Leaving campsite in morning. Lovely spot.


52ml. Hard day on the bike. Lot of climbing but on good roads. Lot quieter roads ha. Arrive late in Beppu and sus out a camping spot on a park near the port but go into onsen till it goes dark before setting up the tent. Early ferry in morning have to be at the counter for 05.20am.

Quieter roads today


62ml. Changed my route after an hour on the road. I got a reply off a warm shower host at south Aso so I head there. It’s a hard day over 2 mountains. I arrived late at 18.45pm. was cold also but Jiro and his family made a lovely meal and I camped in a greenhouse on the farm. I end up staying 4 nights as I hike up Mt Neko Dake and ride up Mt Aso, an active volcano. I also try an onsen for the first time and wow, I’m going to stop at many while I’m here.

Lovely warm shower host’s, Jiro and his family.

Active volcano Mt Aso

Mt Neko Dake.

On the way to Jiro’s


31ml. After a 2hr delay in Hong Kong, I arrive in Fukuoka late to assemble the bike in the dark and rain. I find shelter at a football stadium and camp for 2 nights due to the rain. I set off all nervous not knowing what to expect. I do 31ml in the rain and camp at a rest station under a bridge to shelter. The new stand alone tent comes in handy. Lot of travelling on pavements today and the urban areas seem to go for ever and never end. I’m not over excited at this point but things can only get better.

Opposite the rest station I stop for my first night on the road.

Detour to a shrine at Dariwa and a little look around

Camped at the football stadium at Fukuoka, sheltered.


41ml. Wow is all I can say. I couldn’t stop taking photos along the route of the beautiful Queen Charlotte drive. I met a couple going the other way from Blenheim who I met on the Molesworth. Was great to see them again. After lots of pictures I land at a warm shower host’s, Don and Val who kindly let me camp in their beautiful garden and enjoy a fantastic evening meal. Up early for the ferry in the morning back to Wellington so it’s goodbye south Island.

Scenic Queen Charlotte drive.

Lots of great post boxes painted along the way.


41ml. 2 climbs and good shoulder on the road to cycle on. Late start 1pm, after fishing with David and his son, and arrived at Rai valley. A small hamlet really but free options of camping each side of the village but I chose to camp at the Tavern for $10 and have a good meal and few drinks. Lovely place. Even met an English lad here who was travelling around in a van.

Nelson art


57ml. Fantastic day on quiet roads and cycle paths. Wakefield to Nelson on the great taste trail was good. I arrived in Nelson at David’s house, I met him and his children on the Molesworth. A really warm welcome and delicious meal. His wife was lovely and was great to meet again. So kind in letting me stay another night and took me fishing on his boat in the morning. Really great stay.

David and his son.

Great art on the buildings in Nelson

Beautiful cathedral in Nelson

Great taste cycle path


50ml. Took a gravel road to lake rotoroa. Bit of a climb but hardly saw a car this way. The lake was beautiful but was being eaten alive with sandflies so I moved on. Also there was a lovely campsite, really quiet before the climb in a big garden for a few dollars. Got to Lake Rotoiti where I was staying for the night and it was overpriced doc site so I went back to a cheaper one a few miles back.

Gravel road to lake rotoroa.

Beautiful Lake Rotoroa.


54ml. Steady riding today with a call in at Lyell and Inangahua to look at the earthquake museum and interesting history. Arrived at warm shower host’s house, Owen, a great guy and let me stay another day so I could hike up a hill to have a break from the bike.

A view from my hike.

Old bric a brac store in Murchison


37ml. Steady day and weather a lot better. Stopped at a lovely campsite at Ikamatva on route with a nice Tavern attached and chatted for an hour with a lovely couple. I’d have stayed as it was also st Patrick’s Day, but it would have been to far the next day as I’d arranged a warm shower stay. Was a lovely campsite at Reefton and the cheapest holiday park so far with a great kitchen.

Road to Reefton

Lovely Reefton.



24ml. Day 1, Fit a new chain this morning and I’m now doing the wilderness trail. Sunny start to the day and only did a short milage day enjoying the scenery through beautiful woodlands and stayed at Hokatiki at a warm shower host’s, Kevin, a retired scientist and an avid tramper in his younger days.

Beautiful wilderness trail.

West coast wilderness trail

29ml. Day 2. Hokatiki to Trapper’s rest. Rained all day after leaving Kevin’s and a great breakfast. Was soaked by the time I reached Cowboys retreat just short of the summit. Was offered a cabin at a special price of $100 by the owner but passed, ha. Rode over the hill and down to a little siding with lovely grass. An old bus with a double bed in it, a Teepee and even a shower. I stayed in the teepee and it was so peaceful. I left a donation for the owner who traps possum’s. The rain was relentless so it was a big relief to stay in the Teepee.

Wet wilderness trail

Cowboys retreat

44ml. Day 3, Trapper’s rest to Greymouth. Rain had stopped in the morning but it was grey like it was going to start any minute. I finished off the wilderness trail and arrived in Greymouth, it was a lovely town with a holiday park but decided to push on to Blackball and stay there. An old mining town and was intrigued with the history. I had 3nights here due to the rain and loved it. Luckily it was weekend and the hash harriers were there and another group from Christchurch who were up for the annual cricket match. ( Tragedy in Christchurch this weekend with the racist attacks) Live band on in the club sat night and was a really good weekend. This town is expecting an influx of tourists soon as a new tramping trail is being put in which ends/starts at this small dying town. Tramping is very popular here in NZ. Good luck to Blackball and I hope it brings in lots of tourists to this beautiful community of friendly locals.

Road to Blackball and a memorial for a mining disaster.

On the way to Greymouth

Leaving Ross.


59ml. Steady day but rain to start with. Managed to pack tent away just before it came down heavy. Stopped raining later and made it to an old tavern and got a room for $20. Rained all night so I was glad. Enjoyed a bowl of chowder and a few pints in the pub. Last out again.

Some comical sights on the way.


45ml. No wind today and got all 3 hill climbs done to Franz Josef by 1pm. Early camp pitch at Lake Mapourika.

Road to fox Glacier


54ml. 2 climbs today then mostly flat. Good weather again and saw 1 cycle tourist on the other side of the road lying down with ambulance in attendance and a campervan and cars stopped. Obviously been knocked off his bike. Got to pine grove and it was a fantastic little place, only enough room for a few tent’s and a lovely little lounge/kitchen area. I rang through the day before just to book in advance, although I’d have been ok, as only 1 more tent arrived, but you never know.

Road to pine grove motel


58ml. Good day with nice scenery. Steady climb over Haast pass with some nice wayerfalls. Nice campsite on left just as you turn into village with a great kitchen and there’s also a store within walking distance.



Today was fantastic for views but a hard climb over crown range, the highest sealed road in NZ. I got a reply via email off Sally and Malcolm, friends of Jill from white cliffs, so that was good news and they were a great couple who made me feel really welcome when I arrived and made a great evening meal. Their son was a fell runner and also a great guy. Windy day but great sunshine.

Lake at Wanaka

Fantastic views from crown range

Crown range summit


Rode into Queenstown and met Herman again for a nag and coffee. Took a hilly bike path to a lovely campsite at Arrowtown.

Beautiful views on route

On route to Arrowtown


34ml. Rode by Lake Wakatipu on the gravel road to Mt Nicolas where, after a 2hr wait, I caught the ferry to Queenstown. $34 from here or $50 from Walters peak, which is 11km further and the ferry is an old steamer called Earnslaw. Queenstown was very touristy and campsite wanted $45 for a tent so I rode out towards Glenorchy 7ml to a doc site on the side of the lake.

Queenstown in the distance.

Gravel rd to Mt Nicolas


41ml. Left campsite and decided to take a gravel road short cut to Lake Mavora road. After lots of climbing but a very quiet road I came to a gateway, no access, private property, you are under surveillance. Oh no, if I go all way back I won’t make lake movara campground. I ask a lad on a tractor, tell him my predicament and he says go back. I’m just having a sandwich when a pickup comes through the gate. I flag him down and ask if he’s the farmer. No he says I’m a fisherman, well you just came through I say. Well I ring the station manager for permission. So he gives me the number and I ring, tell him I’m just an old man on a bike who’s dropped a bollock. He gives me permission. Phew. I make beautiful lake Mavora for camping and met an American called Mike who’s also touring on a Surly.

Scenic quiet gravel road.

Beautiful Lake Mavora.

Camping lake Mavora

Lake Mavora gravel road.


Day off to go on the trip to Milford sound. A fantastic day and the bus ride with the very informative driver was just as good as the boat ride. Just my pick of the photos as there’s too many great shots.

Beautiful Milford sound

Fantastic views from the boat.

Early start on the bus.



18ml. Had to leave the fantastic campsite as I’d booked a trip to Milford sound from Te Anau. Took the very scenic bike track along lakes Manapouri and The Anau. Booked into a very busy and noisy campground.

Beautiful bike trail to Te Anau.


41ml. Wet start to the day and was cold in the tent last night. Rained all night. Fined up again later and was a good day on quiet roads. Great campsite on side of the lake and the owner, she must have been in her 70’s, was very witty. Lots of old Morris cars on the site. Her sons hobby.

Old Morris minors on the campground.

View from campsite

Nosey Al paca



20ml.Woke up expecting heavy rain but it fined up and the sun came out so I packed up and set off. 20mins later and a full on head wind and all waterproofs on. Sheltered in a garage due to the heavy rain and the owner and I had a good old chin wag. I set off again in the rain as I didn’t think it would stop and called it a day at Clifden suspension bridge campsite.

Clifden suspension bridge.



32ml. Left Tim UK cyclist at campsite as he developed a bad back and wanted to rest it. Wanted to make Clifden but had 2 punctures and the wind was bad. 1 of the punctures was caused by a burr on the rim where it joins together, so I had to file it down and put a rubber patch over just to be on the safe side. Made it to lovely little campsite 20ml short of Clifden.



2 days off here. I like the town and Tim has days off too so we go and see burt Munro’s stuff and a visit around a park with a bird sanctuary and plants.

Famous Indian bike Burt Munro broke world records on Utah salt flats.

Burt Munro statue.


40ml. After a lovely breakfast and goodbyes to my kind hosts, I go to Waipara point lighthouse on recommendation from the nice farmer’s wife, Pip, and what an interesting place to visit with a very interesting history. It started raining but I loved the small detour. On the way to Invercargill I call in a cafe to shelter from the heavy rain and meet a belgium touring couple who I met at Danceys pass. I have a coffee with them and the rain turns to beautiful sunshine riding into the central holiday camping park. The belgian couple turn up and also Tim from England. I plan a day off tomorrow to see Burt Munro’s memorabilia in town at Hayes hardware store.

Waipara point settlement.

Waipara point lighthouse.



Was warned about the bad wind forecast for today so I left the tent at campsite and just set off to do a ride out to slope point, the most southern point of nz south Island. After a few miles I didn’t think the wind was so bad so I turned round and packed all my gear and set off to get to fontrose campsite via a side trip to slope point. Big mistake, the side trip to slope point was very hard hills to get there in bad wind which blew me off. I left the bike at the top of the hill looking down on slope point and hitch hiked to the car park as the wind was so bad. Met a lovely American couple who also gave me a lift back up to the bike. The wind got worse and I stopped at 2 farms to ask if I could camp in a field but no one was about. I went further and was nearly hit with a car as the wind blew me across the road. I decided to camp at the rear of Otara community hall but a lady came in a car and asked what I was doing. ( It’s forbidden to wild camp) I explained it wasn’t safe she told me to wait. Next thing she turns up in a farm pickup truck with a small trailer on the back. Put the bike on there she said and took me to her farm house, gave me accomodation and a chicken dinner. I was drinking a beer, watching rugby an hour later with the husband. Such kind hospitality. It’s like this all over NZ, really kind people.

My saviour, the farmer’s wife. Thank you.

The tree’s at slope point, most southerly point of NZ South Island. It’s windy here.

Slope point, nearly blew my wig off.



47ml. Hard day with lots of climbing. Rained on and off all day. Nice campsite but too many tourists here for me. Saw the rare yellow eyed penguins in the evening but you couldn’t get too close, and dolphins werewin the bay too. The   the petrified forest was beautiful.

Path through the petrified forest.



34ml. Met tim from England and rode with him to Kaka point and Nugget point lighthouse. Saw a sea lion on the beach and a beautiful campsite to end the day.


Beautiful Pounawea.

Kaka point lighthouse

Nugget point.

Kaka point lighthouse and nugget point.


56ml. More of the gold trail to Beaumont and then a quiet road to Balclutha. Great day cycling today but it’s forecast rain tomorrow.


42ml. Left campsite and joined the Clutha gold trail. This follows the Clutha river down to Lawrence. But after 12km the trail ends and you have to catch a ferry to Roxborough Dam to pick up the trail again. This was $100 so I went back and took the road to the Dam. It was not a pleasant experience. 30km of up and down with no shoulder and quite a lot of traffic. Back on the trail it was great down to Millars flat campsite. A fantastic quiet little site. I went to the cafe for an ice cream before checking in and there was a live band on, so was a good end to the day.

Scenic gold trail.

Millars flat cenataph.

Roxborough Dam

The great Clutha gold trail.


56ml. After a good night’s sleep after the hard day yesterday, I jump on the Otago central rail trail to Alexandra. 56ml on a beautiful old railway line with great scenery and traffic free.

The Otago central rail trail.




39ml. Tough day over the pass but fantastic landscape and views and hardly any traffic. Gravel road most of the way today.

Fantastic landscape

Road up to the pass.

Great view’s up the pass.


57ml. Steady day but came off the Alps to ocean path as it’s not finished in places. Passed lots of lake’s and beautiful scenery. Got to Duntroon and decided to get to Danceys pass camping before the rain. Big mistake, got my waterproofs out after 10mins. After pitching the tent, when I arrived at the campsite, I dried my clothes in the dryer and was bone dry in my tent on a Very wet night.



46ml. Met a lovely Canadian couple at the campsite and was great to share stories and they gave me some food and beer. Happy days. After saying goodbye to Chris and Kim I called in at Twizel for some food and a new chain. Made it to a freedom camping spot and a young Dutch couple invited me to share tea with them. Had a wash in the river before bedding down in my cosy tent.

Great last view of Mt Cook from Glentanner campground.

Chris and Kim.

Heading south through McKenzie district.

McKenzie district.

Alps to ocean bike trail.


30ml. Day off today and cycled to Mt Cook village and took the 3hr walk on the Hooker valley track to see Mt Cook. Really glad I came on Herman’s advice. Absolutely stunning.

Herman, great guy making his way up to camp and hike up on My cook for 4 days.

Mt Cook summit.

The Hooker valley track



Mt Cook ahead.


50ml. Nice route to start with along the blue water canals then onto the Alps to ocean trail around lake Pukaki. Mt Cook and surrounding mountains look awesome. Got a puncture on the road up to Glentanner but made the campsite before the rain.

Mt Cook in the distance across lake Pukaki.

Herman and my bike

Having a break on the Alps to ocean trail on lake Pukaki.

Following the blue water canal.


27ml. Steady day but bad road. Busy with traffic and no shoulder. I rode with Herman, an Aussie and he has talked me into diverting to Mt Cook tomorrow. Beautiful lake Tekapo but too many tourists for me. Had to queue to book a pitch for the tent.

Beautiful lake Tekapo.

Camping at lake Tekapo


Lake tekapo

The southern Alps.


Burkes pass.

Leaving Fairlie.p


51ml. Another really hot day. Not too exciting along the road today but a fantastic camping site at Fairlie. Talked to the owner and very friendly, gave me a towel for the shower and some teabags. Nice chap.

Top of the hill before dropping down to Fairlie.


47ml. Left Jill’s at 11am so a late start and a steady day again to the beautiful Rakaia gorge. Fantastic views here and met a lovely English couple from Nelson area. After a chat and some pictures I made my way to freedom camping at Hind bridge.

Hind bridge camping.

On the way to hind bridge

View from the bridge.

Beautiful place

Fantastic view from the top looking down on the gorge.


59ml. Steady day on good roads but not very scenic only in the distance of a mountain range. Arrived at warm shower host, Jill. Lovely house and a lovely person. I was impressed that she had cycled the top to bottom, Te Areora route solo in two months with panniers. One fit lady. Great chatting about travel etc. Fantastic pasta meal and a lovely breakfast. Didn’t want to leave.

Glentunnel village

Oxford Tavern.

Cenataph at Cust on a break

Cust village.


56ml. Late start at 11am due to rain. Took highway all the way to warm shower host Jeff and Caroline. Great family and lovely tea made by Jeff. Showed me around his nursery. Massive place and a great attitude towards life. I learnt how life should be.


On route.


26ml. Well it’s a shame it’s ended but great experience. I set off late today and experience more beautiful scenery. Finally over jacks pass and drop down into Hanmer springs and the pines holiday park for a well earned day off tomorrow. I clean the bike and do some maintenance on the bike in the morning then go to the hot sulphur pools to see if it does my leg any good.

View from top of jack’s pass.

Beautiful sunset.

Pines camping

Hanmer hot sulphur pools.


37ml. Another fantastic day of scenery and admiring views. 35° heat and hard climbing again. Met David and his 2 lovely kids and they made me some tea which was very kind of them and also for the second night running, gave me a cold beer which went down well. Rob the ranger here passed me and offered to take my luggage to Acheron, but I wouldn’t have got up the two remaining climbs with no weight on the loose gravel surface. Finally arrive at Acheron camp and Rob the ranger gives me a cold beer before I set the tent up.

Acheron camp

Steeper than it looks.



35ml. Woke up and still suffering with groin and getting on bike. In pain when I walk but pedalling is ok. The road is isolated so you have to take your own food and get water from the mountain streams.  A very hard day with some steep climbs but beautiful scenery and isolated road. Im riding alone as Josef likes to do his own pace and tells me to set off and not wait. I try my hardest on the steep climbs as if I stop, I wouldn’t be able to push it up with the injury. The heat is also making it hard work as it’s 35°. I arrive at 16.30 at Cob cottage to camp for the night. There’s only a toilet and running water. Josef turns up a few hours later.

Cob cottage

Dry landscape but beautiful

Tough climb’s

Tough route but worth every minute.




42ml. After breakfast at Rene’s, I head to Blenheim and take Taylorpass rd. This is gravel but cuts out a corner and the main highway to the Molesworth. I head with speed through a ford in the bottom of a dip. Big mistake, the concrete under the water is like ice. I’m down and suffer abrasions down my right side. After checking myself and the bike and mopping the blood up I carry on. I’m in pain and think I’ve torn or strained my groin muscle on the right side. I can pedal but find it hard to get on and off the bike and stop putting my right foot down. Anyway I manage 60km and ask a farmer if I can tent in his field and he lets me. I also meet a Hungarian lorry driver, Josef, who is touring on the bike like me and he catches me up and also stays in the field in his tent. I hope a night’s rest will make the leg better.

Great scenery all day.

On the Molesworth.


38ml. After breakfast at Baden and Shelley’s, I follow the river to Wellington after Baden very kindly booked for me the previous evening. I was going to follow queen Charlotte drive round to Nelson but there was no campgrounds anywhere and I got off the ferry at 6pm. Luckily I received a reply off a warm shower host 20km south of Picton. So route changed again. I arrived at 7.30pm just in time for tea. Rene and his wife were great hosts. So relaxed about life. He advised me to take the Molesworth station trail to Hanmer springs. What great advice. One of the highlights of my trip.

Arriving at Picton

Windy crossing

Leaving Wellington


48ml. Hit Martinborough and called in a bike shop for a new cassette. Fit a new chain and 36/12 cassette, old one was 34/11. Hills are steep here so hopefully I can get up a little easier now. I took the Ripataku rail trail to upper Hutt, wow great trail but headwind all the way up the 7km climb. The wind blew me off the bike once. Lovely scenic route to Upper Hutt. I stayed at warm shower host’s, Baden and Shelley’s, fantastic host’s. Very kind and great conversation about their travels.

Shelly and Cliff. Baden left early for work. Missed his picture

Rail trail

One of the old rail tunnels

The Ripataku rail trail.


76ml. No wind today. Very hot 35°. Great route 52 to Masterson then on a quiet road to martinborough. Warm shower host on longbush rd was Tom. He had to work so left the empty house to me. Beautiful quiet place. Tom was a great host and stayed and talked to me for 2hrs before he left. Loved listening to his travel tales via tandem with his wife.



Wimbledon tavern

30ml. Very windy day quiet rd but extreme heat, lumpy and bad head/side wind meant only 30ml. Great camping spot at the tavern garden though and a few pints of beer too.

Pitch in the beautiful garden


World’s longest place name.

Road to Wimbledon


55ml. Chose the quiet route following the tukituki river. Very emotional after leaving mum. Didn’t leave till 12. Lumpy a lot of the way so hard going in the extreme heat. Arrived at Blackhead campsite at 18.30. nice site right on the sea.



Well after 4wk staying in Havelock North and exploring the area, in between helping out at Napier, I’m heading south tomorrow. Was great visiting fishbike most days and chatting with Brian the owner and wade who had cycled 95% of NZ and gave me advice on routes to take. Here are a few pics of the area around.

One of many ocean wall murals painted all around Napier.

Cycle path running for miles along the beautiful coastline.

Every day view from the bridge at Clive while cycling to Napier

Looking out from one of the many winery’s in the area.

Pie night at Puketapu Tavern

Ride out to Puketapu pub

View from Te Mata peak

Having a laugh and cider with Brian at Fishbike.

Helping out in Napier at Fishbike.

Ride out to Cape kidnappers



Well I arrive at my mum’s Airbnb but only Doug is there. Lots of expletives come out when Doug reslizes it’s me. Ha. Mum  arrives an hour later and is very emotional with happiness as I surprise her with my arrival. Karen, who owns the property is there and very kindly allows me to camp in the big beautiful garden which I share with various fruit trees, lots of plants, lovely lawned grassed areas and 2 chickens. It’s paradise for me and end up staying for 4weeks due to volunteering to help out at a cycle rental shop 14ml away. This was great as it helped cure any boredom I would have through the day and allowed me to spend this extra time with my mum and Doug.

Beautiful sundown view from the garden.

Nightime in the garden

Surprise mum and Doug.


The big trucks that populate the highways.

54ml. 2 big climbs after leaving Putorino but beautiful scenery again. Eventually you are following the coast and when you arrive at Bay View, the cycle path starts on a network of over 250km around the area of Hawkes bay. Due to the Xmas hols and lots of families visiting I find it hard to get a positive reply from any warm shower host’s but late in the afternoon I get an invitation from Dave and his wife to camp in the beautiful garden. When I arrive they have family staying over from Hastings but welcome me with open arms and sit me down for a great family meal which was delicious. After a great English breakfast made by Dave I set off on a 1.5km journey to surprise my mum and doug for Xmas.

Road to Bay View

Cycle path on the way to Napier.


54ml. Nice weather again today and had to rejoin state highway 2 so the shoulder isn’t too wide so you have to be careful as it’s a busy road without an alternative. I tried to get to lake Tutira but arrived at a small town called Putorino which had a freedom camping area but it was 13km down a gravel track. I asked in the bar if there was anywhere nearer and the locals said I could camp outside the sports ground around the corner. Happy days. I end up in the bar all night with the locals for a few sherberts or more.


38ml. I wake, the rain is relentless so I have to shelter until 11.30 before setting off. I stopped to dry the tent out when the sun appeared later in the day. I had now reached Lake Waikaremoana and the scenery was stunning. My progress was slow on the gravel road and I fell off a few times due to loose road surface combined with bad cambers on the bends. My own fault for not pushing the bike on these bad bends but there was no damage to me or the bike due to the low speed. Got a rear wheel puncture but was going again in 15mins after a quick change of tube. After running alongside the lake and the beautiful views for a long way, the road turned back to asphalt, I sheltered in a barn due to a heavy downpour. I waited for a couple of hours for the rain to stop but there was no easing of the downpour, 10ml short of my camping area I walked to the farmhouse to ask permission to sleep in the barn and the farmer said no worries. He made me laugh as I walked away, he told the dog off and told it to wash it’s ears out because it never alerted him to my presence ha.

Beautiful lake Waikaremoana

Beautiful lake Waikaremoana

Camping in a barn


67ml. Lovely day and got to Murupara for some dinner. After leaving here the road was quiet regarding traffic. I got a 3ml and 5ml section of gravel and then when I arrived at Ruatahuna and filled my water bottles, the gravel section started along with the ascent. The hill wasn’t too steep but it was long and the loose surface made it tricky and harder than normal to pedal a 60kg loaded touring bike. I made it to the top and on the downhill, managed to reach a freedom camping area next to a stream with only me there. It was going dark and I just managed to warm up my Beans on the stove and make a cup of Yorkshire tea before I lost the light and retire into my pitched tent in a lovely spot in the middle of nature. The sound of the running water and sounds of nocturnal animals and insects soon put me to sleep under the star lit sky.

Gravel road on a good section


23ml. Late start this morning after leaving Dave’s and heading to Havelock North on the east coast via Murupara and lake Waikaremoana. I only got to lake Okora and it was so nice and it had freedom camping on the edge of the lake, I decided to stay there for the night. I travelled to Kerosene creek, after pitching the tent, and the water at the small waterfall was so hot it had steam coming off. Then it was back to the tent for a tin of Irish stew with some bread for my supper before listening all night to the chorus of mating calls from  hundreds of tree frogs.

Freedom camping at Lake Okora

Bike trail to lake Okaro


52ml. After leaving Phillip and Helen, I head to Te puke then take a quiet road down to Rotorau. I got a last minute reply from warm shower host’s, Jim and Lisa which I was grateful for as I was struggling finding a freedom camping area. As I stopped to check my navigation, a cyclist stopped to ask if I was ok and after a bit of a chat he offered me a place to stay the following night. This is typical of the friendly people here. I camped in Jim and Lisa’s beautiful garden and after chatting for a while about how they came on a working holiday and decided to stay, ( so many people I’ve met here from the UK have done this) I bedded down for the night under the star lit sky. In the morning I took their dog for a walk around the redwoods I explore the thermal springs, a Maori village and the beautiful lake then head to dave the cyclist, who I met the night before, for a few beers, great conversation and a fantastic roast chicken dinner. Turns out Dave’s mate from Auckland is on warm shower and I talked with him on the phone when I was up there. Small world.

Walking the dog through the Redwood’s


50ml. After a day off and a 50ml ride up the Coramandel peninsula and back, I say goodbye to Maria and Geoff and head to Katikati via the Hauraki rail trail to Waihi. A great trail and very scenic with no obviously no traffic. It’s an old rail line made into agood gravel cycle trail beside flat green pastures, gold mining relic’s and a forrested gorge honeycombed with gold mining tunnels. Then I headed out to Waihi beach and then the last 10ml to my next warm shower host’s, Diane and Ian. I meet a German woman at the end of the street walking her dog and invites me in for a cup of tea and chat about my travels. This hospitality is one of countless times from the kind people of NZ. Diane and Ian are great host’s and let me sleep in my own room with on suite bathroom. Really lovely and kind host’s with a lovely breakfast to help me on my way.

Rail trail

Waihi beach